2010 Corbieres Cuvee Simone Descamps

As with the Arnaud de Berre, the back label declares another 'ultime sélection parcellaire', also Syrah, Carignan and Grenache, but older vines – 10-20 years old. Cold pre-ferment maceration, temperature-controlled fermentation. 50% in year-old barrels and 50% in stainless steel for 12 months. Deep crimson. Deep plummy nose. Figs and burnt plums on the palate, chewy sooty tannins, dark as Turkish coffee. Molasses and Bovril (beef extract) linger on the finish. It has that unmistakable glowering Corbières snarl about it, and yet there is a freshness of good ripe fruit that keeps me coming back. (TC)