1993 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Cuvee 250 Anniversary

A strong spring growth in the vineyards was followed by a precocious flowering in early June. During the warm, dry summer, an unseasonable spell of rain delayed the start of the picking season, while significantly increasing the volume of the harvest. The Chardonnays were picked from the second week in September, a week earlier than the Pinots. Harvest: Baumé 9°2 GL – Total acidity 8.1 g/l H2SO4 – pH 3.01 – S/A 19.1 Chardonnay: Baumé 9°4 GL – Total acidity 7.7 g/l H2SO4 Declared yield: 10,379 kg/ha Assemblage: 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru, 65% from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant and Le Mesnil) and 35% from the Montag ne de Reims (Puisieulx, Sillery and Verzenay). Disgorged Mar 2002. Fully evolved well-knit nose. Quite savoury and even lightly nutty, a very sturdy wine with quite marked acidity still, as though it always will have this character. Quite evolved. He thinks it is already a food wine. Pretty good length. Just a little skinnier than some. (JR)

Among the wines of the 1990s, I especially liked the 1993 Dom Ruinart, which was beautiful, especially considering this was an original disgorgement. Layers of honeyed fruit, licorice and mint were woven together in a captivating fabric. We also caught this wine at near peak, as it was firing on all cylinders. What a beautiful wine.