2012 Maranges La Fussiere

The 2012 Maranges 1er Cru La Fussiere comes from a vineyard synonymous with Pinot Noir, although it is becoming known for the excellence of its whites. Up until 1989 it was sold as Cote de Beaune Village until it was granted AOC status. It has a very pretty, light peach and lime scented bouquet with great tension and purity. The palate is very well balanced with a keen thread of acidity. It leads to an almost clinical, mineral finish akin to a fine Saint Aubin. Very fine indeed. I have long admired the wines of this Maranges-based producer who have a knack of producing taut, linear, mineral-driven wines that are as intellectual as they are pleasurable. This was my first trip south to small village of Dezize-les-Maranges where I met Marc and Alex Bachelet who escorted me over to a separate tasting room. The brothers established the domaine back in 2005 with the aid of their father and uncle after honing their craft overseas and today they farm 20-hectares of both their own vines and rented vineyards. The tenets here are quite simple: no herbicides in the vineyard with regular ploughing to aerate the soil; early picking to capture acidity, long pressing, small deboubagement, natural ferments and around 20 to 30% new oak. Maturation is in large 350-litre barrels in order to make fresher wines for keeping, and their policy is for less oxygen during elevage, eschewing batonnage. The wines usually age for one year in barrel and they are then racked into stainless steel on the lees for 8 months and bottled in April. Their Puligny-based wines take center stage: a thrilling set that really get to the heart of the terroir, razor sharp wines that walk in their kitten heels instead of boots. But do not overlook their Santenay Blanc or their fabulous Maranges La Fussiere that doubtless represents outstanding value. Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218. Also available from various merchants in the UK (BBR, Bibendum, Justerini& Brooks and Tanners.)