2019 Arbois Savagnin Ouille
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Tasting notes
Full bottle 1,284 g. From several parcels on very different soils including marl, limestone scree and marly limestone. One-third is macerated on skins overnight. Fermented in foudres and barrels, aged 500-litre barrels, 20% new oak. Smells like almonds, almond blossom. The sea from a shell-strewn beach on a still day. Dandelions. There’s a tiny fairy-comet trace of spritz. Salted lemons. Clementines. Mango and dried mint. Tastes of dandelion butter, the last flakes of a croissant on a fingertip, warm sourdough and lemon-zested, thyme-fragrant hazelnut dukkah. Satin texture. Fabulous, electrifying nervosity, but the wine gentles into a finish pulsing with quiet persistence. (TC)
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Savagnin ouillé, sometimes called Traminer, or Fleur de Savagnin, is the topped-up version of Savagnin, one that Domaine du Pélican has been producing since 2012. In Jura, the most common use of Savagnin is for oxidative wines ( sous voile ), either vin jaune (which requires more than 6 years in barrel under flor), or simply Savagnin (2 to 5 years in barrel under flor). This cuvée is made of many different parcels located in Arbois and Montigny-lès-Arsures. The soils are very diverse: multi-coloured marls; fallen limestone rocks ( éboulis calcaires ) over grey marls; and marly limestone. The grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed, and fermentation is in foudres and barrels. One-third of the crop macerates with the skins for one night before being pressed. Ageing is in 500-litre barrels with 20% new oak for just over half of the crop. The balance is in foudre and vats. Complex mix of fruit aromas from tart citrus to more exotic notes as well as a more green herbal side. A little bit salty and stony/mineral too. On the palate, creamy, smooth and mouth-filling, yet with fabulous and vibrant acidity. Taut and dry but not lean or mean thanks to those fruit flavours. Long, creamy finish without any sweetness other than fruit flavour and no obvious oak. May well age a lot longer. (JH)