2015 Aliot

65% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, 5% Marsanne, a touch of Viognier. 13-year-old vines on a north-facing slope at 550 m on stony clay-limestone. 8 months in demi-muids. TA 5.9 g/l (tartaric), pH3.4, RS 1.8 g/l. Mid gold. Inviting m ature, golden and lightly honeyed aroma. But still so fresh even with the breadth of flavour that seems to be from bottle age. The palate is rich, golden and complex, honeyed and a little toasty, like still champagne, and just a touch of the cedary character of a mature oak-aged white – reminds me a little of traditional white rioja even though the oxidative character is much more restrained. Also showing a slight note of bitter orange and pear eau-de-vie (without the alcohol). Excellent freshness. This seems to have hit its stride now and although there is no rush to drink it, I’d say it is on the cusp between fruit and bottle-aged complexity and à point. Long, deep and fresh. Delicious intensity and complexity with no heaviness. A highly distinctive wine. The use of oak is really well-mannered now that it has aged and just right with this weight of ripe but fresh fruit. A great southern Rhône white. (JH)