2015 Cote Rotie

The 2015 Côte Rôtie Maison Rouge comes from the southern part of Côte Rôtie and is mostly destemmed (there’s 25% stems) and is brought up in 25% new French oak. It’s unquestionably the finest red I’ve tasted from the domaine, boasting awesome notes of black raspberries, blackberries, ground herbs, exotic flowers, and spice. As always, it’s not a powerhouse and offers incredible elegance and finesse in its texture, fine tannins, and great finish. Hide bottles for 2-4 years and it will drink brilliantly over the following 10-15. At the top of the hierarchy of Condrieu, Domaine Vernay has been run by Christine Vernay since 1997, when she took over from her father, George Vernay. These wines go from strength to strength, and today she fashions an IGP Viognier, three Condrieu, an IGP Syrah, a handful Saint Joseph, and two Côte Rôties. The majority of the 2015s were reviewed last year, so this report focuses primarily on her 2016s. Christine commented that the vintage started slowly with a rainy, cold spring, but quickly warmed going into summer and early fall, with beautiful weather at the end of the year. I was able to taste two 2017s, and while a hot, more challenging vintage, she appears to have handled the year with ease, and the wines are upfront, perfumed, and sexy, yet also pure.

100% Syrah. 30% whole bunch. Two years in oak (30% new). The oak manifests on the nose with sweet spice and pepper, and loads of juicy red fruit in the background. Elegant, sophisticated, with the fruit taking all the spice thrown at it by it. Serious tannins which keep the palate furry and ageable. Not as stemmy as many, but the fruit clarity is pure Syrah. (RH)

The firm, tannic 2015 Cote Rotie Maison Rouge needs another 4-5 years of cellaring. Right now, this medium to full-bodied wine is closed and cedary, showing its 30% new oak, but there's great depth of cherry fruit lurking at its core, waiting to blossom. The potential is clear in the wine's long, silky-textured finish, which picks up hints of fruit and espresso as it lingers.