2020 Arbois Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
Full bottle 1,293 g. A cuvée made from several different parcels of vineyards located in Arbois and Montigny-lès-Arsures. The vineyards sit mostly on hilltops, over marly soils. Their elevation is the highest of the estate (close to 400 m). One vineyard is on the west-facing slope of the Revermont and is covered with limestone scree. Age of the vines is between 10 and 45 years. The grapes are lightly crushed and then immediately pressed. Fermentation takes place in barrels and foudre. Ageing is half in 500-litre barrels (of which 13% are new oak) and half in foudre. Rich first impression on the nose and just slightly toasty even though I wouldn't in any way describe it as an oaky wine. Stony, too. Very stony and tightly wound citrus and quince. Extremely tense and pure. On the palate, mouth-watering, crisp citrus rounded out just enough by the texture. Slightly sour finish increases the freshness. A little spicy on the aftertaste and even better on the day after opening – so it might be worth decanting while it is young? Excellent persistence. Salty aftertaste makes it very moreish. (JH)
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com