2020 Arbois Trois Cepages

Full bottle 1,294 g. They have been making this red cuvée since their inaugural vintage, in 2012. At the time, they decided to vinify all of their red grapes together and thereby created this blend of Pinot Noir (60%), Trousseau (35%) and Poulsard (5%). Hence the name, Trois Cépages. The vineyards are all located on the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures, as is the winery. The soil is made of grey and black marls, partially covered with scree. The vineyards broadly face west, at an elevation of between 300 and 400 metres. Destemmed, short fermentation, aged in burgundy barrels (55%) and foudre (45%) – longer than in previous vintages thanks to more space in the new winery. Purplish mid to light crimson with a purple-pink soft rim. If anything, the aroma is darker-fruited than the Pinot Noir and more obviously mineral/stony, but with a lovely floral quality, too. I am not sure if there is any whole bunch in here but it smells like it – herbal and stony, with the subtle and distinctive scent of peony. Darkly, elegantly fragrant, with a hint of white pepper. On the palate, sweeter-fruited than I expected, with red and dark-red fruits and some wild strawberry. Very fine tannins for such a young wine, bone dry, so dry it is a little bit chewy, but the tannins are paper fine. Terrific length and freshness with the complexity and integration of the co-ferment. Pure, unadulterated pleasure and great persistence for what tastes like a relatively lightweight wine, even though the alcohol has given it body. (JH)