2019 Beaune Bucherottes

Bottled, Le Grappin have made this since 2012. On the border with Pommard, beneath Clos des Mouches, but not on the heavy clay of Pommard, so more elegant tannins. From a 35-year-old clonal and a 65-year-old mass selection of vines. Lutte raisonée – one systemic spray at flowering, with copper and sulphur treatments only otherwise. 95% whole cluster then a 13-day cuvaison, no SO2 during vinification, one pigeage on the eleventh day and another on the twelfth. No remontages. Aged for 12 months in 300 to 400-litre barrels that were between one and five years old so no new oak. Unfined, unfiltered. Mid transparent crimson. Pale rim. Youthful, ultra-fine nose – this is just so elegant! Wonderfully pure, sweet Pinot fruit delicately made that's just a joy to taste, with admirable persistence. There are fine tannins here but the fruit is so charmingly compelling that I want to drink this this evening. It's a little more complex and high-toned than their Savigny 2019. (JR)