2015 Franciacorta Dosage Zero

90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Bianco, aged for 30 months on the lees and further aged in bottle after disgorgement, which was on 11 November 2018 as indicated on the back label. An intense straw yellow is the first of many signs this wine doesn't want to play the imitation game, together with the fact that it includes 10% of Pinot Blanc in the blend and they do not add any sugar at any stage of the winemaking process, insisting that only ripe grapes can produce quality. They call their method solo ova ('only grapes'). Fascinating nose of white fruit with an undertow of wax and a minerally character, almost a little iodine even. White fruit, lemon confit and hints of almonds on the palate with lively, fine CO2 that lasts on a long, dry yet full finish. Highly original and bursting with character but may come of a shock to those who expect something more conventional. (WS)