2014 Chablis Les Clos
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Tasting notes
Pale yellow-straw. A touch of lactic reduction to the classic aromas of grapefruit, lemon, crushed stone and mint; stands out for its treble tones. Almost painfully intense in the mouth; a pure expression of calcaire with its penetrating lemony fruit cut by incisive iodiney shrimp and oyster shell minerality. Extremely tight-grained in the early going, with no way in. A real essence of Clos, and the most youthfully closed wine in the tasting. Finishes with outstanding palate-staining length and lift. This dense but weightless grand cru has all the elements for greatness. The finished acidity is above 4.5 grams per liter, according to Dauvissat.
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(12.7% alcohol from a crop level of about 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Dauvissat): Pale, bright yellow. Knockout pristine nose combines white grapefruit, quinine and iodine; at once perfumed and powerful. A wine of great energy and finesse, conveying outstanding cut and precision to its flavors of citrus peel, grapefruit, lavender and dusty stone. The Preuses is as thick as this Clos but this wine is even more sharply delineated. Finishes with extraordinary energy and rising length. Dauvissat owns 1.7 hectares in this great grand cru.
Bright, pale yellow. Compelling high-pitched aromas of grapefruit and liquid minerals. Conveys a virtually solid impression of extract in the mouth, with its sexy sweetness more than buffered by saline crushed-rock minerality, lemon, grapefruit, white flowers, vanilla, white pepper and soft spices. With its extraordinarily fine-grained texture, complex soil tones and palate-staining finish, this essence of minerality is one of my early candidates for wine of the vintage in 2014. Although it should enjoy a long and glorious evolution in bottle, it's not particularly austere today.