2011 Meursault Les Tessons

Bright, pale lemon-yellow. Higher-toned than the Tillets, offering scents of lemon and hazelnut. Ripe but tightly wound, with strong acidity and stony cut giving the intense citrus flavors an almost painful quality. This backward, vibrant wine is a bit hard-edged today and in need of at least a couple years of cellaring.

The 2011 Meursault Tessons, which comes from two parcels, is more reserved on the nose than the Tillets. There are touches of gypsum and oyster shell on the nose that is once again, extremely well-defined. The palate has real frisson on the entry, almost a sherbet-like effervescence with a long, lively quince-tinged finish that leaves the tongue tingling. Superb. Drink now-2025. Wine is full of hyperbole, now more than ever, but not with respect to the exceptional wines of Jean-Marc Roulot, a grower that has consistently wowed my palate for several years. Although I have met him intermittently in London, this was the first time I had visited his winery on the outskirts of Meursault, just up the road from Coche-Dury. I wonder if their geographical proximity has something to do with stylistic similarities between the two addresses since nobody captures mineralite like these two artisans. It was a good job I penciled in an appointment this week under clement skies. As we descend to his spotlessly clean, relatively capacious cellar he informs me that it was under several inches of water after the previous week’s deluges in late May. Jean-Marc is an engaging vigneron, as one might expect from the former professional actor. I should put that in the present tense since he was about to film a French drama in Beaune, playing a gendarme rather than a winemaker. We tasted a handful of slightly older wines before broaching the 2011s. Moving on to a comprehensive run through his 2011s that had been bottled between January and April, I asked him for his sentiment toward the growing season. “I feel positive toward the vintage after the 2010,” he enthused, “as it is always difficult after such a lauded vintage. The main factor is that in 2011 the grapes were healthy and everything was clean. This was not the case in 2010, which needed some sorting. Maybe the wines are not as powerful, but they are more elegant and precise with better terroir expression. Many things during the season were similar to 2007: hot spring with early flowering; July not so good but flowering and harvest early. We began 24 August with the full team beginning on the 28 August. The 2011s have lower total acidity than 2010 but pH levels are a little better. Also, alcohol potential was around 0.8 degrees lower. I feel more comfortable with this level of alcohol, around 12.5%, than say 13.5% to 14%, as the terroir is expressed better.” Needless to say, Roulot’s 2011s lived up to my expectations as some of the finest white Burgundy wines in 2011, perhaps not quite right up with the very best I have encountered from this address, but utterly delicious and exquisitely crafted. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

Bright yellow with a green tinge. Reticent, slightly reductive nose offers candied lime, white pepper and a hint of oyster shell. Dense and tactile, with terrific limey acidity energizing the middle palate. Less obviously minerally today than the Tillets and Meix Chavaux but boasts excellent thrust nevertheless. Finishes brisk and long.