1982 Lynch Bages (Unsaleable)
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Tasting notes
I tasted the 1982 Lynch-Bages twice within a month, both at a private dinner in London and at the château, from bottle and double-magnum on separate occasions. Both vindicate an exceptionally fine 1982, perhaps a bit overlooked in a vintage full of stars. Curiously, the bottle in Bordeaux does not fully deliver the mesmerizing freshness and energy compared to the bottle in London: pencil-lead-tinged black fruit intermixed with clove and freshly-rolled tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, perhaps just a little austere compared to its peers. Yet, indeed, the bottle in London exudes class and composure with a detailed, mineral-driven vintage belying that year's unseasonably warm period. Superb. Tasted both in London at a private dinner and at the château.
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More reviews and scores
My last bottle of the 1982 Lynch-Bages continues to drink very well indeed, exhibiting rich aromas of crème de cassis, blackberries, licorice, sweet loamy soil and cigar wrapper. Full-bodied, broad and unctuous, it's fleshy and textural, with sweet, ripe tannins, low acidity and a long, expansive finish. It's fully mature, but it hasn't evolved much over the last decade; so, there appears to be no danger of imminent decline.
This, served at Cordeillan Bages but apparently bought by my host Jean-Charles Cazes in the UK because their own stocks had run so low, was an even better bottle than the one from my own cellar (bought en primeur) opened less than a month previously. A beautiful wine that was minty fresh, fragrant, sweet and gorgeous. I ended up writing 'gorgeous' twice and 'beautiful' once, I see from my handwritten notes. Cazes reminded us that the yield for this wine was a massive 72 hl/ha. (JR)
Soft garnet. Gently perfumed, even a touch of vanilla-sweet freshness. Gorgeous scent and the merest hint of development as it opens up. Elegant and juicy on the palate. Silky, dry tannins and scented with red fruit and a touch of cedar on the mid palate and a gentle dry grip on the finish. Very fine and self-contained but not hidden. Lovely balance. (JH)
About the producer
Ch. Lynch-Bages is one of the largest and best properties in Pauillac, in the Médoc. While officially classified as a Fifth Growth estate, it regularly competes with the First and Second Growths when it comes to quality and ageability.