1994 El Pison Riserva

The tightest-knit, in addition to being the most backward of the four Artadi Riojas reviewed in this segment, is the 1994 Rioja Vina El Pison Reserva. This dazzling wine is made in limited quantities (about 450 cases). Made from a Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945 on pure limestone soil, and aged 24 months in 100% French oak casks, this tight, backward wine should be cellared for 5-6 years. The color is saturated opaque ruby/purple. The nose is tight but promising, with blackberry, cigar box, mineral, and pain grille notes. Well-delineated, full-bodied, and well-textured, this wine displays explosive richness and intensity at the back of the palate - always an encouraging sign for longevity. Outstanding purity and layers of fruit are buttressed by good acidity and sweet tannin. This superb Rioja has at least two decades of aging potential. Wow! This estate qualifies as a fabulous discovery. A relatively new enterprise dedicated to producing wines at the top of the qualitative hierarchy, Artadi has turned out four spectacular Riojas. Founded in 1989, this winery's vineyards are all planted at cool, high altitude (around 1500 feet) terroirs. These are brilliant wines that merit considerable attention. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949