2007 Cotes du Roussillon Visitare Interiore Terrae
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Tasting notes
A very limited production blend of 65% Grenache (from ancient vines, on chalk-clay) and 35% Syrah (on schist) raised in barrel, then transferred to tank (from which it was tasted), the 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France v.i.t (standing for “"visitare interiore terrae") displays aromas of fresh blackberry and cassis, violets, buddleia, and hyacinth. Low-toned coffee and wet stone notes nicely complement the ripe yet bright black fruits on the palate, which is marvelously threaded with a savory, saline, subtly sweet suggestion of lobster shell reduction. The refinement of tannin exhibited by so many of the Chapoutier Roussillon cuvees reaches an almost silken apogee here. Trouillier thinks that getting the Grenache components, especially, out of barrel soon enough and giving them a longer stay in tank is a key both to introducing “rectitude” in the finished wines, and to taming their tannins. With its remarkable combination of richness, levity, and minerality, this epitomizes the best aspects of its vintage and of Bila-Haut’s viticulture and vinification. It should be worth following for more than a decade. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier. Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Visitare Interiore Terrae is utterly compelling. Made from the same blend, the greatness of this vintage is confirmed in this beautiful 2007. It boasts a saturated ruby/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of smoked duck, roasted Provencal herbs, black cherry liqueur, cassis, licorice, and truffle. Incredible density, a voluptuous texture, and remarkable concentration mark this fresh, lively, mouthfilling wine that should age effortlessly for 20-25 years. While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world's greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. These are some top-notch picks from the southern sector of the region that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
Chapoutier was one of the first outsiders into the upper Agly valley. Intense, super-ripe nose with a hint of dust and then very agreeable freshness on the palate that doesn’t taste like added acid but like high-altitude vine growing. Most attractive blend of sunshine and cool nights? Something very slightly tarry about this on the finish but no excessive heat or soupiness whatsoever. A delicate touch in an area where powerballs are easy to produce. (JR)