2002 Ares

Virtually perfect, the 2002 Shiraz Ares (100% Shiraz from an ancient Barossa vineyard) spent 8 months in old oak, and 12 months in new French wood. Inky/blue/black to the rim, with an extraordinary nose of smoked meats, camphor, blackberries, creme de cassis, and a notion of bacon fat in the background, this is great stuff. Full-bodied with a sensational texture as well as stunning purity, balance, and length (the finish lasts nearly a minute), Michael Twelftree believes it has at least 20 years of cellaring potential, and I see no reason to disagree. Like many of the finest wines of South Australia, it is accessible now. Importer: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9463