The world’s fine wine regions famously exist where the climate is just warm enough for grapes to reach ripeness. The ever-warming climate, however, has greatly increased this likelihood, with good-to-great vintages now convincingly outweighing the poorer ones.  Despite this, vintage variation remains an important factor in fine wine and when contrasting 2016, 2017 and 2018 in Piedmont, you see there are still strong variations in climate. The pitfalls of a vintage could arguably be even greater, in that these regions are no longer only concerned by wet, cooler conditions but also by the perils of excessive heat and drought. While hotter conditions can drastically affect yield and quality, the 2017 vintage in Piedmont seems to show that – despite these risks – vines are better at handling the heat. 
Following on from an almost perfect 2016 growing season in Piedmont, 2017 was always going to play second fiddle. The 2017 and 2018 vintages were certainly not as straightforward and – in fact – the two together offer completely contrasting growing seasons which produced totally different results, with 2017 hot and dry, 2018 cool and wet. Despite initial concerns regarding the heat in 2017, the wines – now in bottle – are surprisingly fresh, yet with richly concentrated fruit. Giuseppe Vaira sums it up best: “2017 is a vintage that defies logic.  It was the driest vintage on record and the earliest picking dates of the last five years. Yet, the wines are surprisingly vivid, fresh and still introverted: the opposite of what you would expect from a warm year.” For Giovanni Angeli at Massolino, the 2017s are similar to the 2015s, but with more “energy and freshness”, a pleasant surprise considering the year’s hot, dry conditions. Visiting Piedmont in early 2018, I remember how concerned winemakers were about the past summer. They were shocked by the extreme conditions, registering as the hottest and driest summer since 2003; yet, as Ferruccio Grimaldi and Giovanni Angeli noted, alcohol levels remained normal – particularly for the Nebbiolo.  Grimaldi believes this is because the vines shut down during the hottest period and stopped producing sugar. More surprising was that acidity remained high, something Grimaldi attributes to low levels of malic acid in the grapes. This might sound counter-intuitive, but it is the tartaric acid in grapes that provides freshness, while malic acidity in fact lessens the sense of freshness. For Grimaldi, low malic acidity signifies two things: the grapes reached an excellent degree of ripening, while also retaining healthy levels of tartaric acidity. Grimaldi also noted that, despite the heat in the day, the nights were cooler than other hot vintages – potentially another factor that helped preserve the acidity and freshness in the wines.  Emanuele Baldi from Prunotto pointed out that another possible saviour of the vintage – albeit to the detriment of the year’s yield – was frost. A mild winter prompted early budbreak, meaning vines were significantly advanced when the region was hit by frost. This led to huge losses particularly for the white varieties Moscato and Arneis, but also for lower-lying plots of Nebbiolo, where frost pockets formed.  The fruit that escaped was all from the higher vineyards, sites which naturally preserved more acidity thanks to their altitude. For Vajra, there were three key factors to 2017’s success: the diurnal temperature swing, the lack of rain (which caused a limited intake of potassium and thus better retention of acidity), and a gentle, fresh September which set the stage for Nebbiolo’s tannins to fully ripen. The biggest threat for the season was the lack of water, the risk being that without adequate water the grapes would become shrivelled and overripe. Massolino tried to counter the drought by not trimming the canopy (providing shade) and breaking off superficial roots, forcing the remaining roots to go deeper in search of water.  “We learned a big lesson from this vintage,” says Angeli. “The vines are much more flexible than we imagined.” Moreover, the season highlighted the region’s marl soils important role as a water regulator. “They are like a big sponge that’s able to catch the water during winter and spring, and release it slowly during the rest of the season avoiding stress to the vines,” explains Angeli. The region was blessed again with welcome rain in late August and September, allowing the vines to find equilibrium, completing the full cycle of vegetative growth while also the fruit to ripen fully (both in terms of sugar and phenolic ripeness). While Nebbiolo production was down by around 15 to 25% for some producers (due to the spring frosts and drought), the grapes that survived were beautifully ripe. The 2017 vintage will be remembered for its early harvest, but the results are excellent. “The 2017 Barolo are rich, fresh and fruity wines,” says Grimaldi, “and more ready to drink now compared to 2016 vintage.” Massolino’s Angeli agrees: “The wines already have soft, smooth tannins with a complex and sweet mid-palate.” For Baldi, the wines have fantastic concentration and, more importantly, they are not flabby.  They may not have the structural prowess of the 2016 and will not age as well, but Baldi believes they will drink beautifully over the next 10 to 15 years. Vaira notes the warmth of the year gave the wines “an extra layer of density and mid-palate richness… but what I love about these wines,” he says, “is the quality of the texture and almost a sappy freshness that keeps everything in balance.” Particularly from Vajra’s cooler sites, Giuseppe believes the top 2017s will have sensational ageing potential, especially in comparison to other similarly warm vintages. The 2017 vintage might have been challenging in terms of heat and drought, but such conditions are likely to be more prevalent in the years to come. The good news is that the vines seem to be adapting to these warmer vintages and vignerons are learning how to cope with them – producing some excellent wines that defy logic, remaining remarkably fresh and age-worthy. 
The vintage in brief: Hot and dry conditions – yet the wines have surprising freshness Yields reduced by frost and drought particularly in lower-lying sites Supple tannins that make the wines approachable already Ripe yet fresh wines that offer good medium-term drinking Browse all Barolo or read more Editorial 

With the release of the 2017 Barolos fast approaching, Gavin Smith spoke to some of the region’s leading producers – Giovanni Angeli from Massolino, Giuseppe Vaira from Vajra, Emanuele Baldi from Prunotto and Ferruccio Grimaldi – about the vintage, its extreme conditions and the surprising results

The Barolo 2017 vintage is beyond all expectations. We explore the year that defies logic and the wines are surprisingly vivid, fresh and introverted

Barolo 2017 vintage report 

Barolo 2017: vintage report

Brunello di Montalcino is so well-established in today’s world of wine that it is hard to believe how relatively young its international reputation is. This pure expression of Sangiovese, from the vineyards around the hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany, was first produced in the 1860s, named by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi (of Biondi-Santi). The name Brunello di Montalcino comes from the supposedly superior clone of Sangiovese identified by Ferruccio’s father, Clemente Santi – known as Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello. Prior to 1968 (when Montalcino was first awarded DOC status), however, there were just 11 producers operating in the region, working around 60 hectares of vines. It was these pioneering wine-growers who went on to set up the Brunello Consorzio (consortium), determined to promote and protect the region’s vinous heritage. By 1980, when Montalcino was granted DOCG status, that number had grown to 53. Today there are over 250 producers, with more than 2,000 hectares under vine, and Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous appellations. As the vineyards have expanded, so has the range of styles, showcasing the varied terroir and distinct characteristics of single vineyards or Crus. Made exclusively with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino is released a minimum five years after the vintage, spending at least two of those in oak. Riserva wines are aged an additional year prior to release. Producers generally also make a Rosso di Montalcino, with an additional 500 hectares classified for Rosso di Montalcino production. These wines can be released after just one year, with any vessel permitted – producing a softer, earlier-drinking style of Sangiovese. The famous Brunello clone long thought to define the wines is a myth, and various clones are planted in the region today. Subzones or crus? Despite the climatic differences in Montalcino, the concept of subzones within the region is still in its infancy and not without controversy. Some producers are reluctant to endorse a terroir-specific identity to Montalcino because many have vineyards throughout the region. They use this to their advantage, identifying how certain sites perform better than others in different vintages, allowing them to play around with their blends when designating what becomes their Brunello and what is relegated to their earlier-released Rosso di Montalcino. Another reason for their reluctance is that there is plenty of variation even within these subzones – with microclimates varying dramatically, most notably in altitude. It is the altitude of the site that, for many Brunello producers, is the central factor in determining the style and in many cases the quality of the wine. If this is the case, high-altitude vineyards could have more in common with each other than neighbouring vineyards lower down the slope that sit within the same subzone. For this reason, single vineyards or Crus could be a more accurate way to divide and break down Montalcino’s terroir. Subzones may not tell the whole story, but it is easy to understand why producers with vineyards located in a specific subzone with a distinct identity are keen to highlight this area – a village, so to speak, rather than single vineyard or Cru. The north-south divide The Montalcino vineyards are positioned in a circle around the eponymous hilltop town. At the simplest level, the sub-zones to the north of the town are cooler than those to the south. Producers in the northern regions of Montosoli and Canalicchio tend to pick their grapes later than those in the south. In the 2016 vintage, for instance, lower sites in the south were picked three to four weeks earlier than those in the north. However, altitude and prevailing winds also play an important role in the microclimate of a site. The vineyards in the hottest region of Montalcino in Castelnuovo dell’Abate are also some of the closest vineyards to Mount Amiata, which – at 1,740 metres’ altitude – is large enough to create its own weather patterns. This is hugely beneficial, creating a larger diurnal shift in temperature. While each of the sub-zones (particularly Montosoli) has a distinct flavour profile, the important factors of altitude, picking dates and winemaking techniques all play a role in influencing the region’s rich and varied tapestry of wine styles. The North Montosoli Directly to the north of Montalcino sits the Montosoli hill, perhaps the most distinct terroir in the region and certainly the sub-region that most strongly champions the sub-zoning of the appellation. Montosoli is distinct not just because of the cooler climate but also because of its soil, a distinct calcareous galestro. Wines from Montosoli have a finesse to the tannins as well as heightened aromatic capacity. The galestro rock brings a sapidity and mineral salinity to the wines. Despite the notable elegance, the wines also match the power and intensity of some of the other great sites within Montalcino. Altesino was the first producer in the region to produce a separate exclusive Montosoli cuvée in 1978. Baricci (one of the founding fathers of Brunello), however, has only ever had vineyards in Montosoli and has long been aware of the qualities of the subregion, claiming that it has been legendary for wine production for hundreds of years. Key producers: Altesino, Baricci, Caparzo, Livio Sassetti, Canalicchio di Sopra, Valdicava Other wineries based in the north of Montalcino, outside Montosoli, make some of the region’s best single-vineyard Crus, including Il Marroneto’s Madonna delle Grazie and Castiglion del Bosco’s Campo del Drago. Torrenieri To the far northeast lies Torrenieri; here the compact clay soils create more tannic, burly examples of Montalcino. Key producers: Sasso di Sole, Citille di Sopra Central + The South Tavernelle Tavernelle is home to some of the most famous producers in Italy. Soldera’s Case Basse vineyard is situated here, alongside neighbouring Pieve Santa Restituta, the Brunello estate owned by the Gaja family. For Gaja, Tavernelle is in a particularly privileged position, facing south and southwest with an altitude ranging from 320 to 350 metres, characterised by an extremely windy, dry, and bright microclimate. The wind protects the vineyard from damp, alleviating disease pressure, while the altitude slows ripening, allowing the grapes to gain flavour complexity but retain freshness. Poggio Antico is also based in Tavernelle and has some of the highest vineyards in the whole of Montalcino, with an average elevation of 480 metres. At this height, the soils are rockier and more calcareous, providing good drainage for the vines while the vineyards are exposed to sea breezes coming from the Tyrrhenian Sea, extending the ripening period and creating more flavour complexity in the grapes. Key producers: Soldera, Pieve Santa Restituta, Poggio Antico Sant’Angelo in Colle To the southeast of Tavernelle, these south-facing vineyards feel the full effect of the localised weather patterns caused by Mount Amiata. Here lies an historic part of the Montalcino appellation with many of the original founders of the consorzio based here, including Lisini, Il Poggione, Talenti, Argiano and Col d’Orcia. This region is known for producing the most muscular and powerful styles of Brunello. Key producers: Lisini, Giodo, Talenti, Il Poggione, Argiano, Col d’Orcia
 Castelnuovo dell’Abate Castelnuovo dell’Abate – the warmest subzone in the appellation – expanded considerably in the 1980s and 1990s. Here the wines – such as those of Poggio di Sotto and Mastrojanni – are known for their balance between elegance and power. Alongside its two vineyards in Central Montalcino, Le Ragnaie also has a vineyard in the region. The slopes are south-facing, however their warmth is moderated by the cooling winds of Mount Amiata, which are particularly noticeable at night. This diurnal shift slows ripening, retains acidity and allows for more complex aromatic and flavour components to develop in the grapes. The mountain also acts as a protector, helpfully diverting storms from the region and protecting it from hail. The varied altitudes within the subzone can produce contrasting styles of Brunello: Poggio di Sotto, for instance, will harvest its vineyards on lower slopes four to five weeks before their higher vineyards. Key producers: Poggio di Sotto, Le Ripi, Mastrojanni, Le Ragnaie Central Montalcino + Le Croce The central vineyards, located directly to the southeast of the town of Montalcino, are home to some of the most traditional styles of Brunello, known for their ageing potential. Both Fuligni and Salvioni have southeast-facing vineyards that sit between 380 and 450 metres above sea-level on soils of chalk, schist and stony marl – and Salvioni in particular argues that this altitude is key to producing the best Brunello. Further south in the Croce subzone, Cerbaiona has become a cult name in Montalcino, offering a unique expression of the appellation largely due to its distinct patch of terroir. The vineyards of Cerbaiona are located on limestone shale and sandy soils, which – combined with a gentle touch in the winery – produces a particularly elegant style of Brunello. Of course, Le Croce is also home to Biondi-Santi – the estate that started it all. The original Il Greppo property is situated at 480 metres above sea-level and, despite the high altitude, the estate likes to pick early, opting for a distinctly fresher, structured Brunello that is austere in youth but built to age for decades. Key producers: Biondi-Santi, Cerbaiona, Fuligni, Salvioni Read more about Italy or explore all current Brunello di Montalcino listings

Arguably the ultimate expression of Sangiovese, the Brunello di Montalcino appellation produces some of Italy’s finest wines – but the region is hugely varied. Here, we examine its subzones – one of the keys to deciphering the wines – and highlight the top producers in each

Exploring Brunello di Montalcino – these special Sangiovese wines and the appellation’s varied terroir, and the varied styles it produces

Your guide to Brunello di Montalcino wines

Your guide to Brunello di Montalcino

Ferruccio Carlotto

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