Few wine regions have seen a transformation as significant as Tuscany has over the last 15 years. These days the region regularly produces some of the finest wines found anywhere on the planet, while retaining a distinct sense of place.  Tuscany is the only region in the world to have truly tamed Sangiovese, with nowhere else able to grow this fussy grape variety and produce wines of the same level. At the same time, Tuscany has managed to produce some of the world’s finest renditions of the better-travelled international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; even Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are finding a foothold in this magical enclave of central Italy. Few have been as influential in this transformative journey than San Guisto a Rentennano’s Luca Martini di Cigala, who has managed to produce not one but two of the region’s most iconic wines – Percarlo (100% Sangiovese) and La Ricolma (100% Merlot). In his typically modest manner, however, he does not believe great wines are made by great winemakers – but by understanding where a vigneron must focus their attention in the vineyard. According to Martini di Cigala, winemaking can improve the quality of a wine by no more than 10%. “Great wine, however, is made with great fruit,” he says. So what is it about Tuscany that has resulted in the region’s recent renaissance? For Martini di Cigala, it has been understanding how the region’s unique soils and climate, if allowed, can produce wines where the character of the terroir prevales, rather than the varietal. “When it is the opposite and the varietal character is more evident than the character of the place, of the area, of the soil,” says Cigale, “to me it doesn’t make much sense.” It is the vineyard that must do the talking, not the grape variety, nor the winemaking. While the Tuscan wine renaissance began in the late 1970s and early ’80s, the meteoric rise of the region was far from linear. Among the new wave of pioneers, there was naivety too and, understandably, external influences started to impact how wine was being made. Back then, San Giusto A Rentennano didn’t have their own personal brand, and were selling wine to the big wineries like Antinori and Ruffino.  Following in the footsteps of the likes of Fontodi, Isole e Elena and Montevertini they decided to focus on improving the quality of their Sangiovese – which began, fundamentally, by reducing the yields in the vineyard. “Before that, we used to produce a good Chianti,” says Martini di Cigala, “a simple wine.” But, with these changes, “The stye completely changed and we began to focus on making wines for long ageing.” As the movement progressed, however, he began to sense a period of self-doubt looming. “Compared to today, where there is a big improvement in the culture of tasting wines and recognising the character of the different varieties,” he says, “people were used to drinking rounder, softer wines. And Sangiovese [made at lower yields] can be so aggressive, so hard with the tannins – especially when young. It was a problem.” At the time, many of the vignerons felt that in order to increase the wine’s ageing potential, the wines needed to be darker and more concentrated, while also exposing the wine to plenty of new oak and more oxygen – opting for smaller 225-litre barrels (barriques) rather than the region’s traditional larger casks. You could see the commercial attraction too, since this approach softened Sangiovese’s tannins. Emerging regions like Tuscany were all looking towards more established fine wine regions for inspiration. The use of new barriques was fashionable around the world but, most notably, part of the Bordeaux recipe of the time. Twenty years ago, Martini di Cigala believes, they wrongly followed these trends, producing intense, overripe, over-oaked wines. “It was a mistake because many wineries didn’t keep the character of the Sangiovese – either due to excessive use of wood, which does not integrate well with Sangiovese, or because it was blended with other varieties to build the wine’s intensity, while softening its aggressive nature.” For Martini di Cigala, even his Merlot plantings weren’t performing well – despite being a variety better suited to the current trends, with better resistance to new oak’s influence. The current recipe was not working for him – or for Tuscany. Early in its renaissance, the region began to stumble. Martini di Cigala’s success came when he realised that, despite sharing the same vineyards, his Merlot and Sangiovese had very little in common. To produce anything better than ordinary, he had to start treating the two varieties completely differently and let the vines do the talking. Sangiovese is a frustratingly fickle variety. It has the potential to produce wines as ethereal as the finest Pinot Noir and as rich and elegant as fine Bordeaux. Yet it has failed to make any real imprint outside Italy and, even today in Tuscany, it remains maddeningly inconsistent. “Compared to other varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah,” he says, “these varieties can produce wine everywhere. With Sangiovese it is hard because it needs calcareous soil in order to produce the right balance of tannins. In any other kinds of soil, it either increases acidity too much or the opposite, making the wine very flat. To produce a wine with a precise character with a lot of tannin but at the same time integrated with the fruit, Sangiovese needs calcareous soil.” But, he stresses, it is not only the soil but the climate that is important too. “It is difficult to have great Sangiovese that is very, very light, low in alcohol and low in polyphenols [tannins]. The wine must be rich,” he says. The region must be hot. The elegance and the precision, however, come from another distinct attribute of the hillsides of Tuscany: cool night-time temperatures. This, Martini di Cigala believes, is vital for the elegance of the wines – and something that can be lost in warmer vintages. “Sangiovese is very delicate, if there is too much concentration, the level of tannins risk damaging the wine’s natural elegance and the balance,” says Cigala. For me it is a great wine when the wine doesn’t need to show muscle. It is not important to be extremely concentrated or to have a lot of colour for a great vintage. It is more about the balance of the different factors.” He notes that some of the most celebrated vintages aren’t necessarily the longest-lived, highlighting that the cooler 2013 and 2014 vintages will outlive the much applauded, warmer 2015s – although he insists 2016 has proved to be spectacular. Percarlo evolved as Martini di Cigala gradually understood Sangiovese’s sensitivities. Up until 2008, Percarlo was aged 100% in barriques. First produced in 1983, the amount of new wood has been reduced over the years. Today he doesn’t use any barriques at all for Percarlo, or for any of his other Sangiovese wines (Chianti Classico and Riserva). He believes Sangiovese is too sensitive to oxygen to age in smaller barriques. Today it is matured 50/50 in large 5,000-litre and 3,000-litre barrels. Martini di Cigala didn’t start producing Merlot until 1993, but for the first 10 years, he managed the vines similarly to his Sangiovese – with mixed results. “Sometimes the vintage would be very Tuscan in style and then the opposite in other vintages – the aromas were more like Merlot from north Italy with more pepper on the nose. I was never convinced with the results,” he says. The Merlot in Chianti Classico is also very different to the Merlot grown on the Tuscan coast of Bolgheri. The bigger diurnal temperature shifts in the Tuscan hills produce Merlot with more acidity. The wines are, in Martini di Cigala’s words, “more vertical”. The real success of both Percarlo and La Ricolma, Martini di Cigala believes, lies in the bespoke adaptations he started to make in the vineyard for each variety. Sangiovese really benefits from an early green harvest in July – reducing the natural yield. Merlot, on the other hand, proves to be a disaster if you do the same thing and limit your yields so early in the growing season – causing a spike in sugar production at the expense of tannin development.  Martini di Cigala also painstakingly picks the Sangiovese destined for his Percarlo bunch by bunch, assessing each vine individually. Picking Merlot bunch by bunch, in contrast, makes no sense – “it is far too irregular”. While Sangiovese yields can be manipulated throughout véraison to its benefit, Merlot needs to be left alone. “The key for Merlot”, he says, “is to try to slow down its ripening. If the variety doesn’t have a long growing cycle, the wine remains short.” Over the years Martini di Cigala has moved his Merlot vines to the coolest parts of his vineyards. He admits his original La Ricolma Merlot plot is his worst, its west-facing exposition making it too warm. He much prefers his plots closer to the river where temperatures are lower. But the key viticultural work for both his Merlot and Sangiovese starts earlier – he is keen to point out that there is no recipe each year, the cultivation has to be very precise depending on the vines’ needs. “You have to be a good interpreter of the season. Often you don’t notice the stress in the vineyard until July, by which time it is too late. You have to follow the trends of the weather earlier – this is the most difficult point of our job and has become especially true in the last few hotter years.” Each viticultural step has to follow the trend of the season. That, for him, is the key. Over nearly 40 years Martini di Cigala has continued to make tweaks in the vineyards, further improving the wines. Up until 2004 he used to select the Percarlo grapes only from certain parts of the vineyard, but now the fruit is picked bunch by bunch – another fundamental reason, he believes, the wines’ quality has escalated. Martini di Cigala has proven that wines made from Sangiovese and Merlot can be both bold and beautiful, aligning the Tuscan hills’ unique climate with precision viticulture. The hot summers and cool night-time temperatures matched with the calcareous soils are the perfect combination for Sangiovese and are testament to Merlot’s adaptability. After a period of self-doubt and mixed results for the region, the Tuscan renaissance today has well and truly found its foothold and is on an extraordinary run. And it is Percarlo and La Ricolma leading the pack. “If you asked me to name 15 great wineries in Chianti Classico 20 years ago, I would be in trouble,” says Martini di Cigala. “Today I could arrive at 50 or 60.” What has changed most today, according to the winemaker, is a paradigm shift in focus from winery to vineyard. While he is a little disappointed more of them haven’t turned to organic farming (of which he is a longstanding proponent), he believes the change has been very positive. A noble name, a castle, or a famous winemaker today no longer makes the headlines in Tuscany. It is precision viticulture that has taken these distinct wines from the Tuscan hills to the top of many collectors’ wish lists. Keep an eye out for the latest releases from San Giusto a Rentennano, coming soon. Browse all current listings of San Giusto a Rentennano or read more Editorial

Luca Martini di Cigala, the man behind Percarlo and La Ricolma, is one of Tuscany’s viticultural pioneers. We spoke to the San Giusto a Rentennano winemaker about his role in the region’s renaissance and how he turned to the vineyard to reveal his wines’ true potential

Exploring how San Giusto a Rentennano’s Luca Martini di Cigala discovered Tuscany’s true wine potential with his iconic Percarlo and La Ricolma wines.


San Giusto a Rentennano's iconic Tuscan reds

Two titans of Tuscany: Percarlo and La Ricolma

Brunello di Montalcino is so well-established in today’s world of wine that it is hard to believe how relatively young its international reputation is. This pure expression of Sangiovese, from the vineyards around the hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany, was first produced in the 1860s, named by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi (of Biondi-Santi). The name Brunello di Montalcino comes from the supposedly superior clone of Sangiovese identified by Ferruccio’s father, Clemente Santi – known as Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello. Prior to 1968 (when Montalcino was first awarded DOC status), however, there were just 11 producers operating in the region, working around 60 hectares of vines. It was these pioneering wine-growers who went on to set up the Brunello Consorzio (consortium), determined to promote and protect the region’s vinous heritage. By 1980, when Montalcino was granted DOCG status, that number had grown to 53. Today there are over 250 producers, with more than 2,000 hectares under vine, and Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous appellations. As the vineyards have expanded, so has the range of styles, showcasing the varied terroir and distinct characteristics of single vineyards or Crus. Made exclusively with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino is released a minimum five years after the vintage, spending at least two of those in oak. Riserva wines are aged an additional year prior to release. Producers generally also make a Rosso di Montalcino, with an additional 500 hectares classified for Rosso di Montalcino production. These wines can be released after just one year, with any vessel permitted – producing a softer, earlier-drinking style of Sangiovese. The famous Brunello clone long thought to define the wines is a myth, and various clones are planted in the region today. Subzones or crus? Despite the climatic differences in Montalcino, the concept of subzones within the region is still in its infancy and not without controversy. Some producers are reluctant to endorse a terroir-specific identity to Montalcino because many have vineyards throughout the region. They use this to their advantage, identifying how certain sites perform better than others in different vintages, allowing them to play around with their blends when designating what becomes their Brunello and what is relegated to their earlier-released Rosso di Montalcino. Another reason for their reluctance is that there is plenty of variation even within these subzones – with microclimates varying dramatically, most notably in altitude. It is the altitude of the site that, for many Brunello producers, is the central factor in determining the style and in many cases the quality of the wine. If this is the case, high-altitude vineyards could have more in common with each other than neighbouring vineyards lower down the slope that sit within the same subzone. For this reason, single vineyards or Crus could be a more accurate way to divide and break down Montalcino’s terroir. Subzones may not tell the whole story, but it is easy to understand why producers with vineyards located in a specific subzone with a distinct identity are keen to highlight this area – a village, so to speak, rather than single vineyard or Cru. The north-south divide The Montalcino vineyards are positioned in a circle around the eponymous hilltop town. At the simplest level, the sub-zones to the north of the town are cooler than those to the south. Producers in the northern regions of Montosoli and Canalicchio tend to pick their grapes later than those in the south. In the 2016 vintage, for instance, lower sites in the south were picked three to four weeks earlier than those in the north. However, altitude and prevailing winds also play an important role in the microclimate of a site. The vineyards in the hottest region of Montalcino in Castelnuovo dell’Abate are also some of the closest vineyards to Mount Amiata, which – at 1,740 metres’ altitude – is large enough to create its own weather patterns. This is hugely beneficial, creating a larger diurnal shift in temperature. While each of the sub-zones (particularly Montosoli) has a distinct flavour profile, the important factors of altitude, picking dates and winemaking techniques all play a role in influencing the region’s rich and varied tapestry of wine styles. The North Montosoli Directly to the north of Montalcino sits the Montosoli hill, perhaps the most distinct terroir in the region and certainly the sub-region that most strongly champions the sub-zoning of the appellation. Montosoli is distinct not just because of the cooler climate but also because of its soil, a distinct calcareous galestro. Wines from Montosoli have a finesse to the tannins as well as heightened aromatic capacity. The galestro rock brings a sapidity and mineral salinity to the wines. Despite the notable elegance, the wines also match the power and intensity of some of the other great sites within Montalcino. Altesino was the first producer in the region to produce a separate exclusive Montosoli cuvée in 1978. Baricci (one of the founding fathers of Brunello), however, has only ever had vineyards in Montosoli and has long been aware of the qualities of the subregion, claiming that it has been legendary for wine production for hundreds of years. Key producers: Altesino, Baricci, Caparzo, Livio Sassetti, Canalicchio di Sopra, Valdicava Other wineries based in the north of Montalcino, outside Montosoli, make some of the region’s best single-vineyard Crus, including Il Marroneto’s Madonna delle Grazie and Castiglion del Bosco’s Campo del Drago. Torrenieri To the far northeast lies Torrenieri; here the compact clay soils create more tannic, burly examples of Montalcino. Key producers: Sasso di Sole, Citille di Sopra Central + The South Tavernelle Tavernelle is home to some of the most famous producers in Italy. Soldera’s Case Basse vineyard is situated here, alongside neighbouring Pieve Santa Restituta, the Brunello estate owned by the Gaja family. For Gaja, Tavernelle is in a particularly privileged position, facing south and southwest with an altitude ranging from 320 to 350 metres, characterised by an extremely windy, dry, and bright microclimate. The wind protects the vineyard from damp, alleviating disease pressure, while the altitude slows ripening, allowing the grapes to gain flavour complexity but retain freshness. Poggio Antico is also based in Tavernelle and has some of the highest vineyards in the whole of Montalcino, with an average elevation of 480 metres. At this height, the soils are rockier and more calcareous, providing good drainage for the vines while the vineyards are exposed to sea breezes coming from the Tyrrhenian Sea, extending the ripening period and creating more flavour complexity in the grapes. Key producers: Soldera, Pieve Santa Restituta, Poggio Antico Sant’Angelo in Colle To the southeast of Tavernelle, these south-facing vineyards feel the full effect of the localised weather patterns caused by Mount Amiata. Here lies an historic part of the Montalcino appellation with many of the original founders of the consorzio based here, including Lisini, Il Poggione, Talenti, Argiano and Col d’Orcia. This region is known for producing the most muscular and powerful styles of Brunello. Key producers: Lisini, Giodo, Talenti, Il Poggione, Argiano, Col d’Orcia
 Castelnuovo dell’Abate Castelnuovo dell’Abate – the warmest subzone in the appellation – expanded considerably in the 1980s and 1990s. Here the wines – such as those of Poggio di Sotto and Mastrojanni – are known for their balance between elegance and power. Alongside its two vineyards in Central Montalcino, Le Ragnaie also has a vineyard in the region. The slopes are south-facing, however their warmth is moderated by the cooling winds of Mount Amiata, which are particularly noticeable at night. This diurnal shift slows ripening, retains acidity and allows for more complex aromatic and flavour components to develop in the grapes. The mountain also acts as a protector, helpfully diverting storms from the region and protecting it from hail. The varied altitudes within the subzone can produce contrasting styles of Brunello: Poggio di Sotto, for instance, will harvest its vineyards on lower slopes four to five weeks before their higher vineyards. Key producers: Poggio di Sotto, Le Ripi, Mastrojanni, Le Ragnaie Central Montalcino + Le Croce The central vineyards, located directly to the southeast of the town of Montalcino, are home to some of the most traditional styles of Brunello, known for their ageing potential. Both Fuligni and Salvioni have southeast-facing vineyards that sit between 380 and 450 metres above sea-level on soils of chalk, schist and stony marl – and Salvioni in particular argues that this altitude is key to producing the best Brunello. Further south in the Croce subzone, Cerbaiona has become a cult name in Montalcino, offering a unique expression of the appellation largely due to its distinct patch of terroir. The vineyards of Cerbaiona are located on limestone shale and sandy soils, which – combined with a gentle touch in the winery – produces a particularly elegant style of Brunello. Of course, Le Croce is also home to Biondi-Santi – the estate that started it all. The original Il Greppo property is situated at 480 metres above sea-level and, despite the high altitude, the estate likes to pick early, opting for a distinctly fresher, structured Brunello that is austere in youth but built to age for decades. Key producers: Biondi-Santi, Cerbaiona, Fuligni, Salvioni Read more about Italy or explore all current Brunello di Montalcino listings

Arguably the ultimate expression of Sangiovese, the Brunello di Montalcino appellation produces some of Italy’s finest wines – but the region is hugely varied. Here, we examine its subzones – one of the keys to deciphering the wines – and highlight the top producers in each

Exploring Brunello di Montalcino – these special Sangiovese wines and the appellation’s varied terroir, and the varied styles it produces

Your guide to Brunello di Montalcino wines

Your guide to Brunello di Montalcino

It is a rare chance to taste all the single vineyards side by side and the best opportunity to really try and understand the nuances and terroirs of each of the separate sites. What is immediately clear is however variable in their tannin profiles, aromatics and fruit flavours, they are all incredibly consistent in quality.  There isn’t a bad wine in the line-up, more than that, there isn’t a single wine that is less than excellent. All the wines share the same composure: the acids vibrant yet beautifully integrated, the tannins present but never awkward, despite Nebbiolo’s tendency to be slightly grippy and astringent, particularly in youth. After visiting the winery in June we knew Aldo was extremely excited about the 2016 vintage
and rightly so, it is an outstanding wine and an incredible buy for the price. If you missed our initial release in the summer of last year, don’t miss an additional allocation to be released next week. But he is also very proud of this latest line-up of single vineyard Riservas from 2015 released for the first time on the market this week. 2016 as a vintage is always going to overshadow the 2015, despite it being a lovely vintage in Barbaresco and certainly in great contrast to the much cooler 2014. These single vineyards certainly express both the warmth of the vintage and the quality of each specific site. None of the wines were raisined, but perhaps as Aldo describes a “little tighter” than the 2016 Barbaresco (tasted alongside)  as the dry, warm vintage meant the grapes were picked perhaps five to six days earlier than the ideal picking date, in order to retain the acids and freshness at the expense of the tannins achieving complete phenolic resolution. Aldo is
not afraid to give a very honest picture. But he still is immensely proud of
these wines and he should be.  It was this additional six to seven days of phenolic ripening on the vine that perfected the 2016 vintage. Aldo feels that 2015 produced wines that in their youth are slightly
more reserved in style, with sharper tannins and warm fruit flavours. Unlike the 2016s these wines will need more time to bed in (three to four years) and will reach their peak around 10 years of age.  The 2016s in comparison are already fully integrated due to the phenolic ripeness and will age 20 years plus. The contrast in the vintages doesn’t take away the
quality of the wines in 2015, it just provides them with a more limited drinking window. Aldo states the wines are already much more open than they were in September and tasting
them this week they already feel beautifully expressive and open apart from the more austere vineyards of Asilli, Rabaja and the Montestefano. The single vineyards are not made every year and none were made in 2018 vintage, but when
they are, all nine of the vineyards are produced in varying quantities. In 2015 the lowest productions come from Paje and Asili, which will not be made available to buy in stand-alone cases. The best part of the Riserva release is the opportunity to buy all nine vineyards in a mixed case containing one bottle of each. The single vineyards Produttori del Barbaresco produces nine single vineyards, all historical sites within the
boundaries of the Barbaresco commune. First released in 1967 as Riserva Special (five vineyards were produced then), they are bottled only in outstanding years. In such vintages the best grapes from each vineyard site are selected for single-vineyard bottlings, while the remaining grapes are used in the Barbaresco blend. *Descriptions of each vineyard courtesy of Produttori del Barbaresco Pora, "the Dolce Vita wine" Proximity to the Tanaro River creates a unique microclimate for the Pora, a beautiful hill with West and South exposures, while the northern side of the hill is a sheer bluff that drops into the river and where the famous white truffles can be found in season. Due to the proximity to the valley floor, Pora is relatively warm in the early morning hours, but breezy with slightly higher humidity through most of the day.  Soil fertility is slightly higher here too and this gives the wine a smoother character, tannins are soft and the aromas always tend to open up in the early years of its life. Pora is also one of the most historical vineyards in Barbaresco, as it was part of the property of Dominizio Cavazza, the father of Barbaresco, who in 1894 founded the first Cantina Sociale. Produced as a single vineyard by Produttori del Barbaresco since 1967. 2015
There is a lovely plushness to this Nebbiolo particularly in the front palate with ripe juicy red berry fruits beautifully integrated with very sandy tannins. The nose needs a little coaxing but has a lovely floral perfume. Very well balanced and already quite open and little to no bitterness on the finish.
 Rio Sordo, "The silky one" The vineyard is a long, southwest-exposed hillside in the southern part of the Barbaresco village, not far from the river. The light limestone soil with a relatively low calcium content compared to other areas of Barbaresco produces wines where tannins are never dominant, instead, they show a silky quality on the palate that makes them extremely attractive and seductive, never imposing, always elegant. Behind the smooth elegance, however, lies a core of powerful structure and very well-balanced tannins that give to the Rio Sordo its complexity and longevity. First produced as a single vineyard by Produttori del Barbaresco in 1978. 2015  Very exuberant aromatics jump out of the glass. Beautifully uplifting fragrant perfume. A little touch of ripe molasses mixes with sweet baked berry fruits without any raisining. Touch of orange bitters but still very fleshy juicy, ripe and precise. Asili, "A world on its own" This spectacular vineyard has created some of the greatest Barbaresco ever and it has a strong following all over the world. The main part of the Asili vineyard is a protected bowl facing southwest next to Pora, but farther away from the river and the valley influence with warmer and less breezy microclimate during most of the summer. To the East, Asili ends with a bricco, top of the hill, also facing southwest and with a similar soil composition, bordering Rabaja.  The wine is intense, certainly not a full-bodied Barbaresco, but nevertheless showing a very imposing personality. Usually quite closed in its youth it opens up slowly with impeccable complexity and style… a classic Barbaresco, and also one of the most distinctive vineyards of the region. First produced as a single vineyard in 1967. 2015 
Fairly closed on the nose but with plenty of brooding earthy, savoury tones. There is tremendous power on the palate, with very compact tannins that despite their intensity retain a level of elegance and refinement. You can taste the sunshine too with ripe baked berry fruits that the palate remains very vertical, tense and focused. This will benefit from a good five years of ageing. Paje, "Evergreen" The vineyard is a small bowl facing southwest and it lies between the village itself and the famous Asili vineyard. However, Paje is slightly lower in altitude and the vineyard is more open to the Tanaro River influence resulting in a cooler microclimate. The soil is limestone with high calcium level. In result, the wine combines elegance and complexity with intense tannins and it is never shy in acidity.  The latter makes Paje somehow sharper and brighter in its first years, with lovely youthful fruit and flowery notes, almost minty in cooler vintages. Paje is particularly attractive after some ageing, when the wine still retains a fruitful and fresh palate. First vintage produced was 1967 as a small commemorative label for the “Cavalieri del Tartufo” association. Regular production started from the 1982 vintage. 2015 One of the standouts in the lineup with a distinct energy on the palate that get the blood pumping. A lovely focused floral undercurrent with wonderfully vibrant precise fruit on the palate. The tannins start very fine but begin to firm up on the finish adding structure and power and will no doubt integrate with age. This is really excellent with real breadth and natural concentration on the palate. Ovello, "The tomboy" Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco, higher in sea level and
dropping down to the river in a 300 feet abrupt bluff. It is a relatively large area with a number of subzones with West and East exposure, all sharing a similar calcareous soil rich in clay. The extra clay and the cooler microclimate give the Ovello its exuberant and youthful quality in the fruit and its fuller body, which defines its distinctive personality.  Explosive fruit on the palate and firm, sometimes rough tannins on the finish, these wines always bring a lot of joy to the palate and delivers powerful structure, that needs some years of bottle ageing to balance out. Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello (and Pora) when he started producing Barbaresco in 1894. It was among the first five vineyards produced as a single vineyard by the Produttori in 1967. 2015
There is an amazing density and power at the centre of the palate that oscillates round the palate. The palate is stunning with incredibly pure rose petal and stem aromas. Full-bodied, powerful and structured  but beautifully managed with a textural complexity that creates a stunning layering on the palate. Still contains a level of austerity that requires time to meld and mellow. Muncagota, "Pristine beauty" This single vineyard looks South/East, facing the cooler morning sunshine instead of the
warmer afternoon sun. Because of that, the Muncagota vineyard shows beautiful floral characteristics and often a specific mint character on the nose.  Calcareous soil and a low level of sand gives to the wines of Muncagota extremely focused fruit and firm stylish tannin. Muncagota is a perfect example of the elegant, intense qualities that makes Barbaresco one of the most interesting and unique wines of the world. First produced by Produttori del Barbaresco as Moccagatta in 1967. Muncagota is the piedmontese dialect version of the word Moccagatta, same vineyard, different spelling. 2015 
There is distinctly sweeter fruit on the Muncagato and lots of perfume and a baked fruit profile that again retains precision and is not at all over ripe. Definitely more austere tannins on the palate but the fruit concentration contours beautifully over this structural powerhouse. Rabaja, "Pure breed" Rabaja produces quintessential Barbaresco, one of the most complete and balanced of the single vineyards. The vineyard lays at the conjunction of the two main ridges that from the Barbaresco village, one starting at Rabaja and going west towards the Tanaro River (with progressively less calcium content in the soil). The meeting of these two different soils gives to Rabaja its incredible complexity. Bordering both Asili and Muncagota it combines the personality of these two great vineyards with an extra richness due to the South/West warm
exposure. First produced by the Produttori as a single vineyard in 1971. 2015 
Incredible aromas oscillate from the Rabaja – wow, the perfume again gets the blood pumping. Very complex concoction of white stone, lavender, dried herbs, wild flowers. The palate is dense and compact but the tannins beautifully refined despite their intensity and structure. The tannins are extraordinary really almost elasticated, creating so much breadth on the palate and
beautifully integrated. So powerful yet so balanced. Montestefano, "the Barolo of Barbaresco" It is one of the vineyards with a higher concentration of calcium in the soil that gives the wine a powerful tannic structure. The extra heat of the south-facing slope is responsible for the Montestefano full body and almost meaty texture. It produces deep flavoured wines with massive tannins, but quite ripe and well-integrated.  In a wet season, its grapes can hold rain well and is usually the last one to be picked among the Barbaresco vineyards. For all these reasons it is probably the Barbaresco that more reminds of Barolo where tar and rose prevails on the refined violet flavours. Despite this massive attitude remains a true Barbaresco, never too heavy on the palate and with a classy finish that lingers on the palate without overwhelming your senses. First produced by Produttori in 1974. 2015 
A really vibrant zesty citric uplifting aromatic profile really contrasting with dense structural tannins full of power and intensity. The contrast is quite unique contrasting vibrant freshness, mouthwatering acidity and more earthy savoury dryer mineral savoury tones and a clay-like structure.  Montefico, "the Academic" A not widely known vineyard, yet highly sought after by the Barbaresco aficionados. It is often compared to the slightly larger and more famous Montestefano vineyard because of the similar soil (high calcium) and close proximity between the two. It lays halfway between the Montestefano and the Ovello.  Exposure is full South, therefore quite warm, but it is not unusual for Montefico to have brisk morning hours during the growing season because of the cooler northern wind that occasionally funnels in form the Tanaro River and into the narrow valley between the villages of Barbaresco and Neive. Austere when young and somehow less fleshy than Montestefano, it shows a beautiful mineral finish. It produces wine with the breed of any classic Barbaresco and with incredible complexity behind the tannins. First vintage released was 1970. 2015 
There is a lovely energy to this wine matched by its finesse on the palate, another highlight in the in the line up. Fantastic exuberant complex floral perfume with added sweeter berry fruit notes. High level of ripeness but no raisin-like qualities retaining precision and freshness. The clarity of fruit here is exceptional and the long length is testament to the quality here. This
has everything. Explore more Editorial 

Aldo Vacca gives us his take on the vintage, a breakdown of each of the individual single vineyards and their distinct flavor profiles, as well as full tasting notes of the 2015s.

Barbaresco 2015 vintage assessment and a breakdown of each of the Produttori del Barbaresco single vineyards as well as full tasting notes of their wines

Produttori del Barbaresco 

Produttori del Barbaresco: The single-vineyard Riservas

Transitioning from the world of fine cashmere to viticulture might not seem an obvious move – and yet, for Brunello Cucinelli, wine is another arena to which he can bring new “dignity”.  Cucinelli is a man of humble origins, born in a small Umbrian village in 1953. His family were share-croppers but moved to the city in search of better employment, with his father taking a job at a cement factory. Cucinelli saw his father struggle to make a living, and do so with little respect from those around him – a battle which has defined his work and philosophy.  Despite training as a building surveyor, then studying engineering, Cucinelli ended up working as a showroom model for Ellesse in his early 20s while his girlfriend (and future wife) ran a small boutique. Inspired by this window into the fashion world and the brightly coloured clothes of Benetton, he decided to make a line of similarly vivid cashmere jumpers, launching in 1978, aged 25. Since then, the business has evolved – with muted, neutral tones replacing the lively colours that gave him his break. His clothes are defined by their understatement, the epitome of “quiet luxury”.  Today, the Brunello Cucinelli business is worth €6.3 billion. There is more to Brunello Cucinelli than fine fashion, however, with 20% of the personal profits channelled back into Cucinelli’s charitable foundation. He operates under a philosophy he defines as “humanistic capitalism”, wanting to offer his employees the respect his father didn’t receive and reclaim the value of crafts that might once have been deemed “blue collar”.  A huge part of this is his work in Solomeo, the village that he calls home (and where his wife, Federica, was born). The couple got married there in 1982, making it the company’s headquarters in 1985. Since then, Cucinelli has invested significantly in the tiny, hilltop hamlet, gradually restoring it, and adding his own cultural flourishes – a School of Arts & Crafts, Forum of the Arts, Aurelian Neohumanistic Academy, theatre, amphitheatre, library and more. Over the last 30 years, he has – working with architect Massimo de Vico – transformed the village.  Castello di Solomeo, the winery and vineyard, is the latest addition – but one that has been over a decade in the making. Michele Baiocco – who has been leading the project’s team since 2010 – met Cucinelli playing football. He’d been making wine in Perugia, and the two men met for dinner. Cucinelli asked him if he’d help him “give the agriculture world a new dignity”, and they decided to create a Bordeaux-inspired wine. Together they found the right site for a vineyard in Solomeo, and planted the first vines in 2011.  Cucinelli had always loved Bordeaux, but with Montalcino not too far away, and a wish to make something “typical” for the region, Sangiovese was an obvious addition. Extensive studies were undertaken to create a vineyard with the right soils and exposition. But – take a look at a picture of the vineyard, with its softly curving rows of vines that flow across the property – and it’s clear that this isn’t a standard vineyard.  “The vineyard is like a painting,” says superstar winemaking consultant Riccardo Cotarella, who has been working with the team, especially on the blending process, since the 2018 vintage (the first commercial release). It is “an artist’s way to plant vines”, he explains – one that doesn’t make it any easier to work. Cucinelli’s inspiration, however, was a renaissance garden, and the fact that it forces everything to be done by hand is key to the project, emphasising the craftsmanship of making wine, as well as making a beautiful place for the team to work.   The philosophy in the vineyard is driven by “reason and good sense”, with no chemical pesticides or fertilizer, using grass cover and cover crops. It’s a complex site – with five hectares, spread across four different soil types (more clay rich, more marl, sandier and more calcareous) and divided between four varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese).  Each of the 12 different blocks is vinified separately, something which they feel is key to terroir expression. They only make one wine from the site, and – as Cotarella says – “Working with Brunello [Cucinelli] always means the best quality.” Careful vineyard work is key, and the team has been reducing the production per plant, to focus the vines, encouraging complexity and concentration. Just like Cucinelli’s clothes, this is a wine intended to last.  While Cotarella consults, Pietro Grelloni is the full-time winemaker dedicated to Castello di Solomeo, working alongside Baiocco. Grelloni was born locally and worked with Baiocco, but had travelled the world making wine before returning to Perugia, when Baiocco asked if he’d like to join the Cucinelli project in 2017, just in time for the vintage. It’s clearly a special project to be involved in, but – for Grelloni – it’s the long-term view that sets it apart. “We take care about the year, but we also have to take care of the future,” he says – explaining how it is not just about the vintage that will be harvested this year, but in 100 years’ time. As Cotarella says, “It’s a very special wine, with a very special philosophy.”  Castello di Solomeo is exclusively available from FINE+RARE. The second vintage, 2019, is set to be released this week.

Read anything about Brunello Cucinelli and “dignity” is a word that comes up time and again, woven into the very fabric of the empire he has built. As the fashion icon releases the second vintage of Castello di Solomeo, we explore the philosophy behind the project 

Exploring the cashmere king Brunello Cucinelli’s Umbrian wine project, Castello di Solomeo, and the philosophy that defines it

Made in Solomeo

Made in Solomeo: the stamp of dignity

2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay, Alvina Pernot  The fruit for Alvina Pernot’s entry-level cuvée comes from two parcels – Rue du Bois (around their new winery) and Femelottes (neighbouring Les Reuchaux). The result is a fresh, vibrant and juicy Bourgogne Blanc. The wine is layered with green apple, citrus and a chalky minerality. Pure and concentrated, this is excellent value.   2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Les Chataigners, Domaine Hubert Lamy  Between Meursault and Saint-Aubin, this lieu-dit sits at relatively high elevation on limestone – producing a particularly fresh expression of Chardonnay. Vibrant and fresh, there’s a chalk line running through the wine with lemon pith citrus and lime freshness, crisp Granny Smith and crunchy gooseberry. Pinpoint and pure Chardonnay.  2020 Saint-Aubin, Premier Cru, En Remilly, Louis Jadot  Jadot’s En Remilly is once again glorious in 2020. Brilliant wines come out of this south-facing terroir, with mainly rocky clay soils. The nose is vibrant, fresh and mineral, with notes of green apples and lemon. The mix of new (25%) and one-year-old barrels is integrated beautifully on the palate. Creamy and round, the wine is driven by superb acidity and an iodine note. The mid-palate develops continuously with ripe white fruit, remarkable tension and purity. A gentle bitterness makes for a long, mouth-watering, subtly saline finish. While this will be ready to drink early, it will age beautifully. Located just above Montrachet Grand Cru, between the villages of Chassagne and Puligny, this is a Grand Vin at an affordable price.   2020 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Louis Auguste, Domaine David Duband  This wine, named in honour of David’s son, Louis Auguste, comes from higher-altitude sites and some of the domaine’s oldest vines (over 55 years old). In 2020 it is ripe and dark-fruited – a red-berried twist to the juicy bramble fruit, and backed by wonderful freshness. It’s crunchy with chalky-textured tannins that beautifully frame the fruit. The finish is long and vibrant with a wash of saline freshness.  2020 Fixin, Premier Cru, Clos de la Perrière, Albert Bichot  At the same altitude as Chambertin (350-380 metres), this Fixin monopole was created by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century. It is instantly complex and gourmand, with discreet oak, beautiful red and dark berry aromas that lead to a medium-bodied palate. The tannins are silky and elegant, with notes of wild strawberry and black cherry. The site is southeast-facing, with calcareous soils that bring minerality, while the altitude adds freshness to the ripe red fruit on the mid-palate. This complex wine finishes long with notes of cherry and raspberry. The tension and texture are a joy. There are no Grands Crus in Fixin, but this deserves a better classification… definitely a wine to look out for.   2020 Marsannay, La Charme aux Prêtres, Domaine Charles Audoin  It is hard to pick a favourite amongst Charles Audoin’s stunning line-up in 2020, however this was one of them. This stony terroir sits just behind the village. It’s layered with vibrant red cherry and blueberry, with cinnamon spice and rose florals, giving perfume and lift. On the palate, there’s a rush of crunchy redcurrants and a slightly chewier structure. With firmer tannins, this wine needs a little time, but it is balanced and framed by a core of beautifully ripe fruit and zingy, almost orange-zest acidity. 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Fourrier  Fourrier’s village Gevrey, from three hectares of vines, represents a third of the estate’s production. One-third comes from the bottom of the village, with sandy soil, lending fruitiness. Another plot sits below the Grands Crus – with more clay, adding power and structure. The third component is below Premier Cru Les Champeaux and gives balance and finesse. The average age of vines is an impressive 60 years, with none younger than 40. In 2020, the wine is dark-fruited and pure, with bramble and black cherry fruit. It is concentrated, with juicy berry fruit fleshing out the serious yet subtle tannin structure. Fresh acidity drives a long, savoury finish.   2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Premier Cru, La Dominode, Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot  La Dominode is one of the most concentrated wines from Pavelot’s impressive array of Savigny Premiers Crus. The moderately structural, strict tannins bring fantastic depth and are beautifully balanced by the natural fleshiness of the mid-palate. There is a distinct saline minerality that nicely complements the ripe strawberry and red cherry fruit. The tannins are sinewy, dynamic and well-integrated with fresh acidity and ripe, red fruit. This is perfectly pitched, top Savigny.  2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Tortochot  From one of the greatest vineyards in the Côte d’Or, Tortochot’s Lavaux-Saint-Jacques is always impressive. The vines’ proximity to the neighbouring Clos Saint-Jacques no doubt helps in this respect. There is a lovely restraint to the nose, a seriousness too, with earthy, blackberry aromas interspersed with lighter, floral perfume, light pepper and white truffle notes. There is great fleshiness to the tannins, which are rounded and elegant in the mouth. This wine has tremendous depth and fantastic fruit concentration on the long finish.  2020 Volnay, Premier Cru, Les Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils  “If you haven’t tasted Caillerets, you haven’t tasted Volnay,” says Bouchard’s Frédéric Weber. It is one of Bouchard’s most important and historic sites, purchased in 1775. Their 3.75 hectares of vines are situated right in the middle of the slope. The vineyard is famous for producing the most elegant style of Volnay thanks to its rich limestone bedrock. The tannins are super fine, supple and perfectly integrated with the rich black plum and blackberry fruit. The wine has a lovely linear structure, beautiful balance and a mouth-watering finish. This is exceptionally fine.  Read more Editorial or explore all current Burgundy listings 

Great Burgundy needn’t cost the world. For those in the know, there’s great value to be found. Here are the 10 wines that we think offer the best value in 2020 

The 10 wines that offer the best value in 2020 Burgundy en primeur incl. Saint-Aubin En Remilly, Louis Jadot, Volnay Les Caillerets Carnot Bouchard

Burgundy 2020 en primeur top-value buys

Burgundy 2020: top-value wine buys

Each November, the wine world looks to Burgundy for the Hospices de Beaune auction. We dive into the history of this philanthropic institution, the domaine and the wines it produces

Explore the history of Burgundy’s Hotel-Dieu and Hospices de Beaune, its wine estate and the famous annual auction, the Vente des Vins

Your guide to the wines of the Hospices de Beaune

Everything you need to know about the Hospices de Beaune

It’s not every day that you get to taste wines made over half a century ago – but earlier this month I got to trace CVNE’s flagship Imperial Gran Reserva all the way back to the 1947 vintage. Victor Urrutia, the fifth generation of his family to take the helm of this legendary Rioja producer, put together a tasting of what he called “the dirty dozen” – lining up 12 vintages of Imperial. The wines were chosen to show how the wine speaks across a range of vintages – not just the most famous, but the hot, the cold, the mighty and the mediocre.  CVNE has been making wine in Rioja Alta since 1879, so – even going back to 1947 – this tasting offered just a snapshot of its history. Imperial was created in the early 20th century (1917 is the earliest vintage Urrutia himself has tasted), conceived as “super Rioja”, Urrutia explained. The idea was to make the best wine possible, regardless of its commercial potential, at a time when Rioja didn’t have the prestige of today. Around 50,000 bottles are produced, but – importantly – Imperial isn’t made in every vintage, with the quality of the fruit in some years not meeting CVNE’s stringent standards (there was no 2003, 2006 or 2013, for example, and there won’t be a 2023 either).  For Urrutia, the goal with Imperial now is to reflect each vintage, and fine-tune the wine rather than look for revolution. The early vintages are their benchmark and inspiration. Across the vintages, however, Urrutia points to a “churchy” nose – something he finds is distinctly Imperial and reminiscent of the winery.  It’s easy, perhaps, to forget how well Rioja ages – and not just over a decade or two, but over half a century. The oldest vintage in this tasting, the 1947, was undoubtedly the star – a wine that has retained its freshness, with delicate aromatics and a beautifully long, pure, resolved palate. The entire flight impressed – with the quality of Imperial shining through. Some of Rioja’s legendary vintages featured (the 1970 and 1959, which sit alongside the likes of 1982 and 1964 in the history books), but my personal favourites were the aforementioned 1947, the still compact 2004 (named Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 2013), the brooding 2011 and pretty, elegant 2018.   The Imperial vineyards  The fruit for Imperial Gran Reserva comes from CVNE’s best vineyards, all over 40 years in age and almost all bush vines, yielding around 4,000kg/ha (equivalent to circa 25hl/ha or less than 1.5 tons/acre). The parcels all sit close to the Cantabrian mountains, at around 500-600 metres’ altitude, and on poor but cool soils (clay and limestone) – lending the wines great freshness, even in hot and dry years, explains longtime Technical Director María Larrea.  The village of Villalba de Rioja has been the backbone of the wine since its conception. This village was where the Real de Asúa brothers (who founded CVNE) first bought vineyards, four kilometres from Haro. The vineyards are steep and south-facing, exposed to the winds and some of the vines therefore have to be trellised (cordón Royat), but it brings acidity and freshness to the wine – something that is essential for its ageing potential. Parcels in the villages of Briones and Torremontalbo were added later, in the 1960s. Briones has richer soils, gentle slopes and a warmer climate, giving structure and body to the wine, while Torremontalbo has steep, stony slopes with calcareous soils and a significant diurnal shift, adding minerality and finesse to the blend.  The Imperial blend  The blend has shifted over the years, with the wine originally around 40% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo, with the remaining 20% Graciano and Mazuelo. The old vineyards were field blends, with the varieties interplanted and harvested together, meaning mixed ripeness levels – something that arguably brought balance and complexity to the wines, even if some of the fruit wouldn’t have been ripe. Nowadays, each variety is planted separately at CVNE – allowing them more control and precision, harvesting each grape at the perfect moment and crafting a blend in the winery.  There was a move away from Garnacha in the 1970s, with more and more Tempranillo planted instead. Garnacha was less appreciated, seen as a workhorse, an impression that was only reenforced when lesser, high-yielding clones were planted in the 1980s and 1990s. As Larrea also noted, Garnacha is much more prone to coulure and millerandage (poor flowering and fruit-set), which may have been another factor in its decline. There was also a time, Urrutia explained, when Bordeaux was the reference point for fine wine, and they looked to imitate the region, favouring Tempranillo for its darker colour versus the more thin-skinned and therefore pale Grenache. Today, the blend is dominated by Tempranillo (with the 2017 and 2018 Imperial both 85% Tempranillo), but Grenache is undergoing a revival across Rioja and – provided they can have the right clonal material and/or older vineyards – it may contribute more to the blend in time.  The proportion of Graciano and Mazuelo has been reduced slightly, but Larrea emphasises how important the two grapes are in the face of climate change. Mazuelo (aka Carignan/Cariñena) provides structure and colour, while Graciano contributes acidity and aromatic complexity.  The winemaking  Although she joined CVNE in 1991, María Larrea took over the winemaking for Imperial with the 2005 vintage, following on from Basilio Izquierdo, who had been running things for over 30 years (since 1973). Before Izquierdo came Ezequiel García, known as “El Brujo” (“The Wizard”), winemaker for CVNE for over three decades (he returned briefly in 2014 to recreate their legendary white, Monopole).  Across the three winemakers and almost 70 years, surprisingly little has changed. The winemaking here remains extremely traditional, although technology has allowed the team to monitor the wines more closely, and for better winery hygiene, as in most regions. Fermentation remains indigenous, although it’s no longer spontaneous – the wines have been inoculated with a selected strain of their indigenous yeast since the early 2010s (with some experiments in the 1990s). Traditionally fermentation was in concrete tank, however this moved to oak in the 1990s, with one lone vintage (1994) fermented in stainless steel when the vats hadn’t arrived in time.  The wines used to be stored in barrel and only bottled when they were sold, so some older vintages of Imperial spent over a decade in barrel, while today the wine normally stays in barrel for between two and three years. (The bottling dates for each of the vintages is included below – the 1947 wasn’t bottled until 1960!) Originally the oak was all American, simply because that is what they had access to via their historic trade routes, and the barrels were kept for decades (Larrea remembers using 40-year-old barrels when she arrived in the 1990s). CVNE gradually started introducing French oak in the 1980s, with around 30% French oak used in the 1990s and around 60-70% today, with the remainder American.   The wines: tasting eight decades of CVNE Imperial  A note on the bottles themselves: older vintages are in green glass, however they moved to brown glass around 10-15 years ago.  2018 Imperial Gran Reserva: This was a real highlight of the vertical. It is very youthful still, fruit-forward, yet with amazing finesse and delicacy. The nose is precise with dainty aromatics of spice, graphite and florals alongside the crystalline fruit. The palate is juicy and lithe, pure, silken and fresh with savoury tobacco and dried red berries filling the mouth-watering finish. Beautiful and very open, even now. Fermented in oak, 14% alcohol and bottled July 2021.  2017 Imperial Gran Reserva: Frosts swept across much of Europe in late April in 2017, although the rest of the season was relatively warm, producing a tiny crop of concentrated fruit. It’s a drastically different wine to the 2018, yet still with great freshness and a floral lift alongside ripe, sweet red fruit. The palate is tight, much less approachable than the 2018, with compact tannins, a bite of crunchy acidity and a grip of firm tannins, while smoky tones that fill the finish. Decant to enjoy now, but this will be even better with a couple more years in bottle. Fermented in oak, 14% alcohol and bottled July 2020.  2015 Imperial Gran Reserva: The 2015 Imperial is dark and intense, layered with rich bramble fruit, cedar, tobacco, spice and something meaty – a hint of biltong, perhaps. The palate echoes the concentration of the nose, with chewy tannins and a line of acidity that cuts through its intensity. Powerful, almost stern, with more dried fruit coming out with air, the finish is long and savoury, with a touch of red miso. Fermented in oak, 14.5% alcohol and bottled June 2018.  2011 Imperial Gran Reserva: Another standout in the vertical, the 2011 Imperial offers a dark and pure nose, still surprisingly primary with black cherry and cassis fruit, lifted by sweet spicy perfume. The palate is silken and pure, still so youthful, flowing across the tongue, framed by firm but integrated tannins. It’s concentrated and long, with floral aromatics dancing on the juicy finish. Hard to resist with great balance. Fermented in oak, 13.5% alcohol and bottled July 2014.  2009 Imperial Gran Reserva: This is a very serious Imperial now at a lovely stage of maturity – with savoury undergrowth and spicy notes sitting alongside the vibrant dark berry fruit. The palate is intense yet with a softness to it, despite the chewy framework of tannins. It’s juicy and expressive, with smoky, spicy, tobacco notes playing on the finish, and just the slightest hint of leather starting to appear. Fermented in oak, 13.8% alcohol and bottled January 2013.  2004 Imperial Gran Reserva: From “a textbook vintage” in CVNE CEO Victor Urrutia’s words, the 2004 is shining. Pencil shavings and bacon complement ripe, dark fruit. The palate is tight and compact, yet with a juiciness that elongates the whole thing, with acidity that drives through to the long finish. The tannins are supple and soft, integrated with the fruit, but still offer a grip on the finish. Bright and effortlessly balanced. Fermented in oak, 13.8% alcohol and bottled October 2008.  1994 Imperial Gran Reserva: This is an intriguing vintage of Imperial, the only one ever to have been fermented in stainless steel as they were switching from cement to wood, but the new vats didn’t arrive in time for the vintage. It was also served at the wedding of Spain’s Crown Prince, who later became King Felipe VI. After the 2004, this marks a shift towards wines dominated by tertiary notes, although there’s still plenty of fruit here. The nose is spicy with mushroom and undergrowth alongside incense and leathery tones. The palate is laden with umami – with fresh leather and dried berry fruit – as well as dried strawberries, supple tannins and refreshing acidity. Fermented in stainless steel, 13.16% alcohol and bottled June 1998.  1980 Imperial Gran Reserva: As CEO Victor Urrutia said, 1980 was “a shit vintage” – and has always been in the shadow of 1981 and 1982. Tasting the wine today, that’s probably fair – however it’s still an impressive wine. The nose has a distinctly herbal, menthol edge to the sweet fruit – macerated strawberries, with a balsamic hint. The tannins still offer bite, while the fruit shifts to darker, more bramble tones towards the finish. Fermented in concrete, 13.4% alcohol and bottled May 1985.  1970 Imperial Gran Reserva: The 1970 vintage was hot and produced powerful wines – earning it a reputation as one of Rioja’s finest vintages. After over 50 years, the wine is intensely savoury – combining soy, marmite and barnyard tones with intense, dark fruit. With air, the wine offers layers of spice (almost reminiscent of paprika), bacon frazzles and smoked almonds, complementing the concentrated core of fruit. It’s intense yet balanced, with bright acidity that keeps everything fresh and fills the long finish. Fermented in concrete, 12.97% alcohol and bottled March 1975.  1968 Imperial Gran Reserva: From a more difficult vintage, the 1968 Imperial has a charming nose that seamlessly combines savoury and sweet – with earthy richness that sits alongside incense-inflected berry fruit and a pleasing herbal note. The palate is elegant and vibrant, with plenty of fruit still driving through its core, while more savoury, smoky notes dominate the finish. Fermented in concrete, 12.7% alcohol and bottled April 1974.  1959 Imperial Gran Reserva: The 1959 vintage is another of Rioja’s most lauded, although I suspect this bottle was not showing its best. There’s a plushness and intensity to the palate, with a sharp drive of acidity, while the nose is dominated by leather, black liquorice and barnyard. Fermented in concrete, 13% alcohol and bottled February 1968.  1947 Imperial Gran Reserva: An amazing wine to tasted, the 1947 CVNE Imperial has a reputation – one that this bottle more than lived up to. Coffee and tobacco notes with bright fruit – ripe red cherry and raspberry, as well as florals, incense, black tea and sage, alongside smoky perfume. It’s long and fresh on the palate, seamless and fully resolved but pure and persistent, with a Bovril edge to the finish which is vibrant and long. Gorgeous now – drink it while you have the chance. Fermented in concrete, 12.4% alcohol and bottled August 1960.  Explore all CVNE listings, including a range of back-vintages of Imperial Gran Reserva, or read more Editorial 

Earlier this month, CVNE hosted a once-in-a-lifetime tasting of their Imperial Gran Reserva. Sophie Thorpe explores what makes the wine so special and how it has evolved over eight decades 

Exploring CVNE’s flagship Gran Reserva Rioja, Imperial, back to 1947 at a once-in-a-lifetime tasting with CEO Victor Urrutia 

Tasting CVNE’s Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 2018-1947 

An icon through the ages: CVNE’s Imperial Gran Reserva 

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We're in the final stages of upgrading to our brand-new trading platform. As part of this transition, we're currently migrating all customer-owned inventory to ensure a smooth and seamless experience.

Our new and improved platform will be ready for you on Friday, April 4.

Thank you for your patience - we can't wait to show you what's next.

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About description for demonstration purposes

shows all the items you currently store with us. These items can be sold, delivered or transferred.

At {shortName}

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Your pre-order item will be deleted. Are you sure you want to continue?

Your delivery request will be cancelled. Are you sure you want to proceed?

represents all the wines that are in your possession and have been consumed.

This is the price you paid for this item.

Cost price

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The lowest price you're willing to sell at.

shows all the items that you have pre-ordered, including en primeur wines, and all the items on your watchlist.

Futures

You can set a sell price on items you're selling based on a % of current unit net value.

You can set a market price on items you're selling based on a % of current unit net value.

shows all the actions that you have taken on items in your Portfolio.

groups every action by type - Purchase, Sale, Delivery, and Inbound Transfer - so it's clear at a glance what happened to each item.

History

shows all the items that are currently in transit to or from {shortName}.

In transit

Local delivery is free for orders over HK$1,800 (to a single location). For orders below this value, delivery is HK$150 for up to four cases and HK$50 per case thereafter.

Shipping starts from €15 within Italy and €45 to Switzerland and the rest of Europe for up to 48 bottles (75cl). Costs vary by destination. Larger shipments can be quoted on request.

The date shown below is when your order will ship from our local warehouse. Your final delivery date, along with full tracking details, will be provided once our team has processed your request.

You can arrange collection from our Retail store on 22nd Floor, 8 Wyndham Street, Central Hong Kong.
Collection times are between 9:30am-13:00 and 14:00-18:00pm, Monday to Friday. We are closed on public holidays.

You can arranged collection from our warehouse STI INTERNAZIONALE SPA, on Viale del Lavoro, 57, 37051 Bovolone, Verona.
Pick-up hours are between 8:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM to 5:30 PM, Monday to Friday. We are closed on public holidays.

This is the current estimated market value for this item.

Manually set prices will be overwritten. Already listed wines are not affected.

Updates all unlisted wines to current market price.

Set all at market

represents all the wines you currently have in your Portfolio that aren't stored with us. Press the

My cellar

Name

Net price

New portfolio available

New portfolio

You do not have any invoices at this time.

shows all the items from your Portfolio that are currently on the market.

On sale

shows all the items you currently have in your Portfolio. You can perform individual actions on them from this page.

Overview

shows any items that are currently awaiting user action.

Pending

This is the dynamic estimated value of the item with trading margin removed.

This is the amount of profit you will receive if your listing sells.

Pre-authorised payments enable automatic transactions on your behalf, ensuring seamless and hassle-free payments. This allows recurring charges, subscriptions, or scheduled payments to be processed without manual approval each time.

The number of cases you wish to place on sale

Your catalogue item will be archived. Are you sure you want to continue?

Your catalogue items will be archived. Are you sure you want to continue?

Before you request delivery, you can adjust the quantity for each item in your selection below.

* At time of sale a 15% trading fee will be deducted from the final sale price.

Total estimated value*'

The fixed custom price you wish to sell each item for.

Split into {caseSize} individual {bottleSize}cl bottles.

Title

shows all the items you currently store with us. These items can be sold.

Available for sale — items stored with {name} eligible to be listed on the marketplace.

Profile

This item is at Vinfolio, available for storage or shipping. For more information on shipping and handling visit vinfolio.com/shipping

This item is at FINE+RARE HOME Hong Kong, available for delivery or local pickup. Most Hong Kong deliveries can be made within 3 working days, an exact date will be available when arranging delivery. International deliveries have longer lead-times, please contact us for details.

Wines sold en primeur will be released from the producer after bottling, typically 18 months after the so-called campaign ends. Upon arrival your wine will be stored at Vinfolio in our temperature-controlled warehouse until you decide to take delivery.

We will source this item at the guaranteed price from our network of suppliers and arrange expedited shipment to FINE+RARE.
 The lead-time depends on many variables, but 2-4 weeks is typical for expedited sourcing.
 Once your order is confirmed, we'll keep you updated on its ETA.
 Every item is checked on arrival by our expert team, with photographs available on request (please note that charges may apply).

When a wine is on "pre-arrival", it means that we have a confirmed order on the bottles from our supplier and we are simply waiting for the winery or distributor to ship the wine to us. The delivery timeframe for pre-arrival wines varies significantly, depending on where the wine is coming from. We will notify you once they arrive at our warehouse and, at that point, you can decide to arrange shipping or list them for sale.

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