It’s no secret that Scotch whisky is dominated by two giants – Diageo and Pernod Ricard, who represent 60% of the market, with three other big players taking the next 20%. That leaves a mere 20% for those who have the wallets and mettle to fight over the rest – but that’s an increasing number of people. There are currently over 30 single malt distilleries at some stage of opening.  “I think it’s a bit of a worry to be honest,” Mark Reynier, Renegade Spirits founder and CEO, says. Reynier has been behind three of the most talked-about distillery projects in the past 20 years – the resurrection of Islay powerhouse Bruichladdich in 2000, the renovation of a former Diageo brewery into Irish single malt distillery Waterford in 2015 and the construction of Renegade rum distillery in Grenada from scratch in 2020. All three have a dogged focus on terroir and have not been without their struggles. “Superficially it does look easy - but it sure as hell isn’t,” he says. “With Bruichladdich we almost went bust twice. With the best will in the world and two-distillery experience I got it wrong with Renegade and almost went bust last September.”  In Reynier’s view, many of those opening distilleries are driven by romantic ideas and the desire to make a quick buck – from landowners looking to monetise estates to “crooks” who “promise fortunes to be made”. Few, however, have the knowledge, business nous or money to back up their ambitions.  Wolfcraig – a new distillery in Stirling – is one of the industry’s most interesting projects, largely thanks to the experience of the team involved. While neither of the founders Jamie Lunn or John Moore had worked in whisky before (coming, respectively, from construction and finance), Jamie Lunn’s father is former Whyte & Mackay chairman and chief executive Michael Lunn – and happened to be eager for a new project. It hasn’t been plain sailing though: the team had a false start with an ill-fated attempt to take a controlling stake of an existing distillery. Downhearted but not defeated, they made the decision to go it alone. Moore and Lunn have assembled a first-rate team with over 200 years’ experience. Master Blender Richard Paterson OBE was the most recent addition to the roster – which Jamie Lunn affectionately refers to as “the Harlem globetrotters of whisky” – including Dr Alan Rutherford OBE (former Production Director at Diageo, Master of the Quaich and previous President of the Malt Distillers Association of Scotland), Ian Macmillan (a Master Distiller, also a Master of the Quaich and a member of the Worshipful Company of Distillers) and Iain Lochhead (former UK Bacardi Operations Director, and another Master of the Quaich). But even with a team of such pedigree, it hasn’t been easy. “It was three and a half years of pain,” Moore says. Every decision has been driven by an unwavering mission to produce a truly special liquid, considerable industry experience and business acumen. Stirling, for example, was chosen not just for its infrastructure, but its accessibility – within an hour’s drive of 70% of the Scottish population. The team ensured they were fully funded and have consciously built a brand – and decided on the style of spirit they’ll be making – before physically breaking ground. “Out of all the new whisky distilleries,” Moore says, “very few of them are designing their own unique spirit and they have not put any thought into why they have a particular shape of still.” Wolfcraig, by contrast, is having their still handmade by Forsyths, with a distinctive double-ball design to produce a more muscular, full-bodied spirit. It’s not just new players and mavericks behind the trend though, with some of whisky’s most historic names being given a new lease of life. Halewood International, for example, is bringing malt whisky distilling back to the heart of the Scottish drinks industry in the Port of Leith, Edinburgh, for the first time in 100 years with the John Crabbie Distillery.  Today, the name John Crabbie might be synonymous with ginger wine, but he was an independent bottler, single malt producer and recognised blender in the 19th century. For the team here, creating something new brings great freedom. “One of the key parts of our distillery is its versatility,” Global Dark Spirits Manager Andy Wallace says. “Because of the type of distillery we have, we can change our new make spirit and we can be very adaptable. That flexibility, put in the hands of somebody who knows what they are doing, like our Master Blender Dr Kirstie McCallum – a chemist with an excellent palate – and we’re going to experiment.”   Experimentation with different casks is high on the agenda. In addition to PX and Oloroso casks, the team is looking at how Manzanilla might work and playing around with other wine cask finishes.   Prior to joining Halewood, Wallace spent six years at William Grant & Sons, the home of Balvenie and Glenfiddich since 1887. “They are beautiful, incredible distilleries in a beautiful part of the world,” Wallace says, “but they come with their own inherent limitations… some people will see them as being a bit aspirational and not for them.” In his view, building something from scratch – even with a history like Crabbie’s – means they don’t have to produce a certain type of product. “What we want to do is bring new people into the category and allow people to drink differently,” he explains. Free from the burden of a legacy, a new distillery can be more agile. This can, however, be a catch-22. In a quest to stand apart, rather than play the old boys at their centuries-perfected game, innovation – if not managed in a considered, well-financed, way – can end in tears. “A lot of people have got rather carried away with the romance and [they] don’t really understand the consequences and the costs, and the durability that you need,” Mark Reynier explains.  “And above all you need a unique proposition. Just to be another distillery isn’t enough. The distilling bit is the easy bit. I think this is what’s going to be the downfall for a lot of people. The maturation and the time and cost is the crunch. And then you have got to bring it to market.” Wallace agrees. “You must have a long-term plan for selling your product because you have got a several-year timeline before you can launch anything in the first place,” he says. “One of the big challenges for whisky companies is predicting demand. If you have to predict how much 12-year-old product you’re going to sell on day one, that is a really difficult challenge.”   This was one of the many reasons Wolfcraig was determined to be fully funded from the get-go. “A lot of new whisky distilleries are just living hand-to-mouth and raising money year-on-year and that is emotionally draining,” Moore says. “But, also more importantly, it takes time away from the business when you are constantly fundraising.” It’s no small amount of money required, either. While you might be able to start a gin distillery with £50,000, whisky is a different beast. “Even the small craft distilleries, you’re talking several million pounds to set up,” Moore explains. “Our overall investment will be close on £20million… So, it’s not something you go into lightly.” “Running a distillery is an expensive business,” Reynier adds. “Just when you most need the revenue to get into the market, that is when you are least likely to have it. You are building in a lag period. You have created this brand over a decade, but you don’t actually have enough stock maturing to satisfy the sales that you have created or are creating. So, you have got to plan forward.” Waterford is a distillation of everything Reynier got wrong at Bruichladdich and everything he felt he wasn’t able to do because of a “lack of resource, lack of desire perhaps, tradition getting in the way, and the lack of logistics”. “We had a war chest because we knew that to do it properly, we had to be able to insulate ourselves financially to be able to buy ourselves the time to do it properly, with proper, premium-quality barley, single-farm distillations for uniqueness and for complexity,” Reynier explains. “Practised at Bruichladdich, perfected here.” Ultimately, once you get past the business and branding, it’s the quality of the liquid that will sort the wheat from the chaff. “We need to achieve the same core things any distillery does,” Wallace says. “We want to make genuinely brilliant drams that people will enjoy in years to come.” Browse all Scotch whisky or read more Editorial 

As demand for single malt whisky continues to soar, the number of distilleries – big and small – preparing to fling open their doors increases at a bullish rate. Holly Motion talks to a few of the industry’s newest names to see if everything is as rosy as it seems

Investigating the sharp rise in the number of single malt whisky distilleries with Waterford, Wolfcraig and John Crabbie. 

Distilling dreams

Our team spent several weeks exploring the 2023 vintage in Burgundy – visiting, tasting and talking to a range of producers up and down the Côte d’Or. Here, we offer a run-down of the year by producer, from north to south, reporting on how each fared and our pick of their range this year

A run-down of the Burgundy 2023 vintage wines en primeur by producer: from Fourrier to Lafon via Bernstein, Lamarche, Lambrays, Duroche and Hudelot-Noellat 

Burgundy 2023 vintage by producer 

Burgundy 2023: by producer

Reports coming in last summer of the long drought that hit Burgundy had many writing off the vintage before it had even been picked. What then turned out to be the earliest harvest on record did nothing to calm those concerns. Many of the vignerons themselves were concerned about how the wines from this unique growing season would turn out. Preceding one of the most challenging seasons in the region’s history (2021 being beset with frost, rain, disease… you name it, it happened), everyone is looking back at 2020 and wondering what they were worried about. It is abundantly clear that 2020 produced some magnificent wines, with exceptional balance, freshness and full fruit maturity, yet that also remain very Burgundian in style. There is very little not to like. How it happened is a lot less clear, but we heard plenty of theories, that – while not completely consistent – go at least some way to explaining the vintage. While the vignerons don’t know for sure why the wines turned out the way they did, how they got there is by the by: these are extraordinary wines. Tasting the vintage While we tasted as many wines as we could up and down the Côte d’Or and beyond, due to the complications of the late 2021 vintage, some vignerons were still busy finishing off the harvest when we visited. The late harvest has also impacted the timing of winery work, delaying the racking process, meaning some of the wines weren’t able to be tasted or were in a slightly awkward place. While the breadth of tastings was therefore a little more limited than usual (with more analysis to follow), we still came away with a good hold on the vintage. On the whole, the wines we did taste were brilliant both in white and red, with a little more consistency among the whites. Pinot Noir struggled more with the drought, while the Chardonnay seemed almost unaffected. Despite the early harvest and slightly contracted growing season, both the whites and reds we tasted were fully phenolically mature. Even though the vines shut down due to the heat, there was no evidence of greenness at all. Some vignerons kept to the traditional 100 days between flowering and harvest – others were down to as little as 90-95 days, with some believing this to be the “new normal”. Benoît Stehly, winemaker at Domaine Georges Lignier believes that 2020’s drought had the same effect on the grapes you get when fruit is dried. “A dried apricot is both sugary and rich in acidity,” he says. “The dehydration of the berries concentrated the sugar,  flavour,  fruit and the acidity. It is the reason why the freshness of the 2020s is so good.” He contrasts it with 2018, another “hot vintage” but with more summer rain. “The alcohols were high and the acidity low in 2018 because the vines never shut down.” Bouchard’s Frédéric Weber echoed this. “The grapes’ maturity was stopped by the drought,  but this was positive, as there is greater natural acidity and natural freshness to the wines.” The expanded range at Alvina Pernot in 2020, a range of taut and mineral Chardonnays The whites The white wines we tasted were exceptional – with fantastic balance, great acidity and wonderful concentration, but moderate alcohol levels, when compared to the more exuberant 2019 and 2018 whites. So many vignerons were keen to point out the low pH levels and very high concentration of tartaric acid – reminiscent of the 2014s, but these wines have so much more flesh too, making them easy to enjoy already. They are less skinny and austere than the 2014s, yet have the energy and equilibrium to age beautifully. What is not to like? Guillaume Boillot at Henri Boillot highlighted the salinity and dry extract in the whites, making them “hyper dynamic and balanced”. He noted that the acidity is thanks to the vines shutting down – something which only happened to the Chardonnay. Frédéric Weber explained that the Chardonnay resisted the heat better, having very high tartaric levels and a pH that is the lowest since 2014 (at 3.1-3.2), creating classic wines. “The balance is perfect,” he said. As Olivier Lamy (Domaine Hubert Lamy) and Francine Picard (Au Pied du Mont Chauve) pointed out, the picking date was key for the whites, as the grapes were ripening very quickly – gaining around 1% potential alcohol in just two days. From our tastings, however, everyone seemed to get this right. Producers were particularly happy to have full cellars when it came to whites – with many coming close to the legal maximum in terms of production. Michel Pernot (Domaine Paul Pernot) feels that the generous yield was key to the fruit not being over-ripe, adding that in 2003 the yield was half of that in 2020 – and therefore overly concentrated and cooked. For Michel's daughter Alvina Pernot, it’s the best vintage she and her husband Philippe Abadie have made to date. Michel echoes the sentiment, saying it was simply “magnifique”. From what we’ve tasted, they’re excellent: vibrant wines that are a little more generous than 2014, but with brilliant precision and ageing potential. Amongst the vines in Chambertin Clos de Bèze The reds The variation in picking times for Pinot Noir emphasised how different parcels matured differently – whether due to microclimate, location, rootstock or access to water. It accentuated just how varied Burgundy’s landscape is, as well as vignerons’ own tastes. Charles van Canneyt (Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat) remarked that people were picking Pinot in the same vineyard up to a month apart. With moderate alcohol levels from all but a few producers, it certainly wasn’t racing sugar levels that forced an early harvest, but that the season started early and stayed so right through to harvest. It was down to the vignerons to dictate the style of their wines. In the Côte de Nuits, there were local rain showers in early August which Erwan Faiveley believes favoured the Pinot Noir particularly in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée. This rain in early August, he believes, not only refreshed the vines but stopped the vines shutting down – helping with the phenolic development of the grapes and increasing the sugar levels, which resulted in higher alcohols, concentration and added freshness. Others around Vosne and Chambolle were grateful for a later rain shower on 28th August, which Lamarche, Hudelot-Noëllat, Gros Frère & Soeur and Georges Noëllat all believed was essential in pushing the grapes through to full phenolic maturity and providing the wines with added finesse. Again, the proof was in the pudding and the wines from Georges Noëllat, Hudelot-Noëllat and Lamarche were easily some of the finest we tasted. Up in Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-Saint-Denis, the likes of Duroché, Tortochot, Georges Lignier and Domaine des Lambrays all chose to pick before the rain. Again, there was no concern here regarding greenness, with exceptional fruit concentration and clarity. Pierre Duroché believes his 2020s to be the densest wines he has ever made, but balanced with amazing acidity. It is certainly an exciting line-up. All in all, there’s more of a range in styles among the reds. In general, the fruit sits more in the red than black spectrum, bright and crunchy, with vibrant acidity and alcohol levels that tend to be closer to 13-13.5% (around 1% less than 2019 in many places). As Charles van Canneyt noted, it’s more classic than 2018 or ’19, while Nicole Lamarche praised the finesse and elegance of the year – something that certainly comes through in her wines. Producers are divided as to whether they prefer 2020 or 2019, although the majority consider 2020 the greater year. David Duband describes it as “fresher, straighter, more serious” than 2019, while Nicolas Potel (Domaine de Bellene) thinks it’s easily in the top five vintages he’s ever made, and will prove more homogenous than its predecessor. Cyril Audoin in Marsannay and Nicolas Potel both highlighted that it was a vintage that will always be open. While undoubtedly the wines have everything needed for cellar ageing – beautiful balance, silky tannins, vibrant acidity and the necessary concentration – they are already very appealing, and seem unlikely to shut down in bottle. Calm in the light-filled winery at Faiveley In the winery 
So, how did producers adapt to the year in the winery? Guillaume Boillot said it was “easy” – and he wasn’t alone, especially in the wake of 2021. Due to the year’s dry conditions, the fruit was so healthy that vignerons didn’t even need to use a sorting table. Because the fruit was harvested in such hot temperatures though, many highlighted the need to pick only in the mornings and in some instances to chill the fruit overnight (as is commonplace in the New World, and becoming more so in Burgundy). Whether or not to use whole-bunch fermentation divided Pinot Noir producers (again). For some producers – such as Duband, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Dujac – whole-bunch is part of their style, and will use a high proportion every year. For others, there is debate. Cyril Audoin de-stemmed everything, feeling that the ripening season was too short in 2020 to allow for full lignification (ripening of the stems). Erwan Faiveley agreed, noting that the way maturity was blocked in the height of summer prevented the stems lignifying. On the other side of the argument, vignerons such as Benoît Stehly at Georges Lignier saw lignification in the stems as early as July and had no concern using them in the blend to add complexity. Even domaines known for not using stems – such as Fourrier – used up to 20% in their blends in 2020. For Fourrier, the aim was to absorb colour and tannin, and add a sense of freshness. The lower alcohol levels made the vinifications generally easy to manage, however the high level of tannin in the Pinot Noir required special care – with many, as for 2019, looking to extract more gently. Frédéric Weber at Bouchard reduced the maceration time to compensate, while Charles van Canneyt opted for more pump-overs than punch-downs. The natural concentration in the berries saw Domaine Georges Noëllat’s Maxime Cheurlin do everything he could to “make the wines thinner”. This meant a 10-12 day cold soak, less extraction and cooler fermentation temperatures (with a maximum 29˚C) – fortunately it worked and the wines remain remarkably ethereal. Vintage comparisons Many vignerons struggled to find a direct comparison for 2020. While the growing season is closest in character to 2003, there is almost universal agreement that the wines (both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) taste nothing like the ’03s. The whites’ tartaric acid and pH levels make a nice comparison with 2014 but they have so much more richness too, which brings added impact. Frédéric Weber notes how despite the warmness of the year, there is tremendous terroir transparency from one vineyard to the next – a real signal for him of a great vintage. In this respect it resembles 2016, but with added concentration. “The Pinots from 2017 and 2019 are soft, aromatic, round and warm in the mouth,” he says, “but the 2020s and 2016s have tension, brightness and are full of energy.” Several noted the similarity in fruit clarity to 2015, but with added freshness. While some compare it to 1947, Nicolas Potel – a man with an encyclopedic knowledge of Burgundy vintages – finds it closer to 1966, with a little 2019. “Big, but with great balance,” he explains. While there’s no obvious precedent, producers agree that the wines have great ageing potential thanks to the rich tannins and high acidity levels. Yields and pricing While Chardonnay didn’t fare too badly in 2020 (making white winemakers in the Côte de Beaune particularly happy), Pinot Noir did suffer in the drought. Yields are therefore reduced by up to 40%, depending on the domaine. Of course, this seems like nothing to producers after the just-picked 2021 – where producers have been able to salvage as little as 20% of a normal crop. This does mean that most wines will be increasing in price this year, with around 10-30% estimated. With so little wine made in 2021, however, and the exceptional quality of 2020, this is a vintage that is hard to miss. The vintage in summary A vintage of outstanding quality Whites very slightly edge the reds, with more consistency Despite being a warm year, wines show vibrant acidity and good terroir expression Yields reduced by up to 40%, with Pinot Noir more impacted than Chardonnay Prices will be up (around 10-30%) due to the year’s low yields, and the almost catastrophic levels seen in 2021 Explore more Editorial 

Our team spent a week tasting their way around Burgundy, getting a handle on the 2020 vintage. Here we dig into a unique year and the stunning wines it produced

Our team tasted their way around Burgundy, getting a handle on the 2020 wine vintage. We dig into a unique year and the stunning wines it produced

Burgundy vintage 2020 review

Burgundy 2020: an exceptional year

Over two trips to the region, our team delved into the 2022 vintage – visiting, tasting with and talking to a range of producers up and down the Côte d’Or. Here we break down the year by producer, from north to south, with a summary of how each fared and our favourite wines from the tasting table

A run-down of the Burgundy 2022 vintage wines en primeur by producer: from Fourrier to Lamy via Bernstein, Lamarche, Lambrays, Duroche and Hudelot-Noellat

Burgundy 2022 – the vintage by producer

Burgundy 2022: by producer

Earlier this month our team spent a week visiting producers, tasting and talking about Burgundy’s 2021s. Here we break down the vintage by producer, from north to south, with a summary of how each fared and our favourite wine from the tasting table.

A run-down of the Burgundy 2021 vintage en primeur by producer: from Fourrier to Lamy via Bernstein, Lamarche, Lambrays, Duroche and Hudelot-Noellat

Burgundy 2021 vintage by producer

Burgundy 2021: by producer

Waterford founder Mark Reynier speaks to Gavin Lucas about his obsession with terroir, traceability and transparency – and how his radical approach is driving unprecedented scientific research into the flavours derived from barley grown on different soil types

Waterford founder, Mark Reynier, discusses his obsession with terroir, traceability and transparency – and how his approach is driving pioneering research 

FONDATA: The Waterford Revolution

The Waterford Revolution

Last month, our team spent a whistle-stop week in Burgundy sampling the 2020 vintage. Here we break down the vintage by producer, from north to south, with a summary of how each fared and our favourite wine from the tasting table.

2020 Burgundy en primeur vintage assessment after tasting Georges Lignier, Dom Fourrier, Domaine Lamarche, Henri Boillot, Paul Pernot and more

Burgundy 2020 by producer

Burgundy 2020: by producer

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When a wine is on "pre-arrival", it means that we have a confirmed order on the bottles from our supplier and we are simply waiting for the winery or distributor to ship the wine to us. The delivery timeframe for pre-arrival wines varies significantly, depending on where the wine is coming from. We will notify you once they arrive at our warehouse and, at that point, you can decide to arrange shipping or list them for sale.

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