When a red blend from Chile became the first wine from outside Bordeaux to be offered on La Place in 1998, it no doubt ruffled a few feathers. Could the New World, let alone South America, ever rival the quality of wines being made in Bordeaux? In the late 1990s, the answer was frankly no. Today, however, the fine wine market is keeping its eye on Chile’s leading estates with good reason. Not because they can rival Bordeaux in style, but because Chile’s winemakers are defining a style all of their own and discovering the potential of their top terroirs.  Gone are the days of overripe fruit, heavy-handed oak and 15% alcohol wines which dominated the scene during the height of Robert Parker’s influence in the early 2000s. Today vintners are focusing on making chiselled and elegant reds, as a result of much earlier harvesting and more restraint in the cellar – but, most importantly, these wines are all about balancing the freshness and nuance of their mountain terrains with the vibrant fruit profile and fine tannins these sunny lands offer. In the past decade, thousands of soil pits have been dug across Chile’s wine regions as winemakers get under the skin of their Chilean DNA — an endeavour well worth the effort as recent vintages show. Here are the regions at the forefront today.  Alto Maipo  It’s no coincidence that Château Mouton Rothschild’s Chilean venture with Concha y Toro, Almaviva in Alto Maipo, was the first non-Bordeaux wine to reach La Place. Maipo had been at the heart of Chile’s great Bordeaux imitation game since the 19th century, and on paper, Alto Maipo has a lot in common with Bordeaux: the same red varieties planted on similar gravels of river terraces.    Today, however, the best wines – including Almaviva and Viñedo Chadwick – focus on what makes Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon and blends distinctive. In high-altitude Puente Alto in particular, the purity of the Andean sunlight at over 700 metres’ altitude offers a flamboyance of cassis and blackcurrant aromas, while cool mountain nights revive the grapes, giving the wines tension, filigree tannins and fragrant wild herb aromas. It’s this seductive combination which marks Alto Maipo as a Grand Cru of Chile.  Aconcagua  Further north, the Chadwick family has been making bold wines from valley floor vineyards in the warm Mediterranean climate of Aconcagua for over a century. Since the 1990s, however, they have been planting on the slopes and the more interesting colluvial soils found in the Andes foothills and towards the coastal mountain range.  Their iconic Seña blend, which originated as a collaboration with Robert Mondavi in 1995, has become increasingly refined under the hand of Chilean winemaker Francisco Beattig in recent vintages. Select plots of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are synthesised into a balanced wine of 13.5% which prioritises harmony over power and carries graphite, cedar and blackberry aromas, trademarks of contemporary Aconcagua wines.  Apalta  One of Chile’s few DOs reflecting a place rather than a political region, the hill of Apalta has become world-renowned as one of the country’s best terroirs, with some of the best-known estates in Chile. Lapostolle, the biodynamic estate of the Bournet Lapostolle family, has been instrumental in developing the reputation and character of Apalta wines.  The key to Apalta today, and their iconic Clos Apalta property is the unique microclimate and kaleidoscopic palate of profiles the winemaker can draw from on this diverse hill site in Colchagua – from rich old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon on the clay soils of the valley floor, to the linear Merlot and peppery Carménère from Apalta’s southeast-facing granite slopes. These complex blends with black cherry and black pepper aromas, a full body and silky finish have become highly sought-after trademarks of Apalta wines today.  Chile’s winemakers are increasingly site-specific in their quest to show the potential of their unique country, with new and exciting vineyards being planted from the limestone-encrusted soils on the coast of the Atacama Desert down to the volcanic slopes of Osorno in Chilean Patagonia. And while there are no doubt many more Grands Crus in the making in Chile, those that have risen to the fore in the fine wine market today show precision, focus and a far greater self-understanding and appreciation than ever before.  Explore all current Chilean wine listings or read more Editorial 

Chile’s most iconic wines have come a long way in the last decade. With producers increasingly focusing on expressing site rather than creating a particular style, a handful of areas are emerging as the country’s Grands Crus, as Amanda Barnes reveals

Chile’s most iconic wines have come a long way in the last decade. We explore the region and producers such as Clos Apalta, Almaviva, Chadwick and more

Chile's Grand Cru wines explained

Chile's Grands Crus explained

We caught up with Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy on all the latest developments at Domaine Leroy and discussed the 2019 vintage, which is set to be one of the lowest yields she has ever produced in the Côte de Beaune. There are some fantastic wines this year from both Domaine d’Auvenay and the Maison Leroy Collection, including a mixed vintage red, coming exclusively from vintages in the nineties, predominantly 1999, originally released to celebrate the millennium. On arriving in Burgundy we headed straight to Maison Leroy situated in the village of Auxey Duresses. There we met with Frédéric Roemer and Gilles Desprez (Lalou’s right-hand men) to taste the wines destined to be released as part of the Maison Leroy Collection later this month. The range this year is smaller than usual but what its lacks in volume it makes up for in quality as well as variety.
 The Maison Leroy Collection 2020 The wines as always were selected by Lalou, based on them all entering into their ideal drinking window with the youngest vintage of white being the 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru and a selection of reds from 2003 – Maranges, Aloxe Corton and Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru. Two exceptional non-vintage releases are also included in the collection this year, a mixed vintage white wine called “Fleurs de Vignes” and a mixed vintage red called “Hommage à l’An 2000”.  This marks just the second-ever release of “Fleurs de Vignes” (the first bottling of this blend was released in 2015) and is composed of three different vintages of Bourgogne Blanc blended with Puligny 1er Cru Champ Gain.  The “Hommage a L’An 2000”, is a unique Pinot Noir blended by Lalou, originally released in 2004 to celebrate the millennium, comprised of a mixture of Bourgogne Rouge cuvée and a number of unspecified village crus, all exclusively from vintages in the 90s with the majority of the wine coming from the 1999 vintage. This special bottling will come with a gold capsule and each bottle is individually numbered. NV Bourgogne Rouge “Hommage a l’An 2000”, Maison Leroy (2020 Release)
Complex nose with both fresh red berry fruit aromas complemented by more earthy, savoury, forest floor and dried cigar leaf notes. Lovely density on the palate with a broad fruit spectrum from candied red berry to savoury dried leather and animal notes. Very elegant on the finish and lots of vibrancy too. NV Bourgogne Blanc "Fleurs de Vignes”, Maison Leroy (2020 Release)
Superb nose, very expressive with aromas jumping from the glass; rich, yet retaining nice stony minerality. In the mouth, there is an explosion of flavours and a lovely creaminess in texture, progressively building on the palate. This is beautifully dense, lactic and mouthcoating, clearly punching above its classification. Sumptuous, precise and long length. This has to be one of the most impressive Bourgogne Blanc out there. Another highlight this year included the Volnay 1er Cru 1984, which although was one of the most difficult vintages in living memory, this wine was really stunning and a benchmark for the Volnay terroir. 
1984 Volnay 1er Cru, Maison Leroy (2020 Release)
There is a charming, elegant perfume to the nose, exuberant, opulent with rich wild strawberries, raspberry, kirsch notes, dried herbs and wild mushroom with a touch of rusticity too. The nose is hypnotic in its perfume and the palate is equally so. It has a very elegant mouthfeel as the fruit aromas continue to the palate and finish with a lovely salinity. This is
a wonderful wine, quite extraordinary. Prior to our visit to Domaine d’Auvenay, we had a quick opportunity to visit the Leroy cellars, an extraordinary collection of ageing bottles, awaiting release, including Batch 001 – the last remaining bottles of 1919 Auxey Duresses. These are the oldest Leroy bottles in existence in their cellar.
 Domaine d’Auvenay Domaine d’Auvenay, is a 20-minute drive from Maison Leroy based in the village of Saint Romain. Here we were greeted by Lalou and her two dogs Nine and Nais as well as a lunch with a few bottles from the latest selection of Domaine d’Auvenay wines also due to be released this month.  We were soon talking about the latest 2019 vintage and Lalou starts laughing about how stupidly low the yields were. The heat and drought of the vintage meant production was significantly down. In fact, the yields were some of the lowest she has ever seen! Most cuvees in 2019 at Domaine d’Auvenay amount to just 1 barrel of each. For the Criots Batard Montrachet she produced less than 100 litres! Despite the pitiful amounts produced, she is extremely happy with the quality and unbelievable concentration. Leroy and d’Auvenay’s vineyards remain incredibly easy to spot in the Cote d’Or due to her unique pruning methods. She wants to create the highest vines possible rather than hedging the vines which she believes stresses the vine too much and affects the pollination the following year.  Lalou admits the process is incredibly high maintenance and requires an extensive full-time viticultural staff to manage. She has up to 60 staff working for her during the season across Leroy and d’Auvenay. Whilst her neighbours have warmed to her philosophy (initially many thought she was crazy), few have followed suit, not being able to justify the running costs of such methods. Since the 90s Lalou has been carrying out analysis on her soils, conscious of the effects of her neighbours using chemicals as another viticultural shortcut. Fortunately, the results she has received shows that the impact from neighbouring plots on her own is marginal and her soils were in good shape and using biodynamic organic farming since establishing the domaine
in 1988 has seen the soils improve year after year. The whites we tried from Domaine d’Auvenay were the Meursault Narvaux 2009 which had an utterly captivating nose, so expressively full of toasted nuts, baked bread, white flowers and matched by a great texture both rich and creamy yet so mineral, so elegant, so precise. This was followed by the exceptional Meursault Gouttes d’Or 2007. The Gouttes d’Or is one of Lalou’s favourite terroirs and one of the most recognisable, stating it has this beautiful
alliance of freshness and richness, always retaining a vibrant backbone of acidity but enveloped by a rich, butter-like texture. These whites were followed by d’Auvenay’s epic Mazis Chambertin 2002: deceptively elegant and subtle on the nose and enormous on the palate. The breadth of the wine is stunning, mouthfilling supported by powerful yet utterly refined tannins. As you coax the glass, aromas of rich dark berries allied with an ethereal floral bouquet joint with freshly grounded coffee,
mocha, dark spices and a hint of wildness too. It's an emotional palate where flavours
come from all direction but there is a real sense of harmony with the complex flavours coming together in the glass. It has epic length and is just approachable now but possesses enough texture and weight to evolve for at least 20 years. Whilst tasting bottles of Domaine d’Auvenay is an unforgettable experience, the tasting was topped by a very rare bottle of Maison Leroy Auxey Duresses 1926. It turns out that this bottle was one of a case presented to the legendary Chef Paul Bocuse for his 50th birthday by Lalou in 1976. It was in fact the last bottles of the vintage from the estate. F+R came into possession of the bottle from an auction in Lyon following his death last year. We thought who better to share the bottle with than Lalou herself. 

Lalou started to recall 1926 was in fact a pretty difficult vintage and that very little wine was made that year. Yet on tasting the wine, it was extraordinary, really something quite exceptional. As we tasted the wine throughout the lunch it continued to evolve and improve rather than deteriorate. It was incredibly stable in that sense and multi-faceted, every time
you put your nose in the glass there were different aromas. It retained its structure right through the lunch and held up brilliantly against the d’Auvenay Mazis Chambertin 2002. It is also even more special since these Pinot Noir vines have since been replanted with Chardonnay vines and thus the wine has not been in existence since then. Today this vineyard produces Domaine d’Auvenay’s Auxey Duresses Les Clous Blanc. It was one of the original vineyards that belonged to her father and therefore one of the most treasured by Lalou. Asked about her favourite wine (surely a question on everyone’s lips!) she replied without hesitation “1955 Chambertin”. Asked why, she replied simply “because it is my favourite”. A fair enough response and typical of Lalou’s unpretentious approach when tasting these remarkable wines. She admits she really loves drinking aged white Burgundy and was keen to prove why during the now legendary tasting in 2018 where she opened white wines dating back to the 1940s and invited the world’s leading wine critics to the domaine.  She wanted to show them how aged white Burgundy should actually taste. She states that the whites from the 1940s were tasting 20-30 years younger than they were thanks to the quality of the wines and the perfect cellaring in the very humid cellars at Leroy. The incredibly stable temperature in the cellar further helps create wines of remarkable stability and ageing potential. Following the tasting, Antonio Galloni commented: “To say these are among the greatest wines I have ever tasted seems superficial.” Before leaving we discussed with Lalou the latest Maison Leroy Collection 2020 release, which she is very proud of. She still, to this day, hand-selects the wines herself. Courtiers bring her wines to try from every appellation and under no contracted obligation she simply picks the wines she feels are the best and represents each appellation most truthfully. Given how well the wines then go on to age at the Leroy cellars is proof of her abilities and the strength of her palate. With 65 years experience of in selecting wines for the Collection, her encyclopaedic knowledge of Burgundy makes her a true savant of the region. Browse all current Maison Leroy, Domaine Leroy and Domaine d'Auvenay listings

Back in Burgundy for our annual visit to Domaine Leroy, we selected what we will offer from the new Maison Leroy 2020 Collection. This year we were also able to taste some of the latest Domaine d’Auvenay releases as well as a rather special bottle of 1926 Auxey Duresses from Maison Leroy.

Exploring the Maison Leroy 2020 Collection and latest Domaine d’Auvenay releases on our team's annual visit to Domaine Leroy.

Visiting Domaine Leroy and d'Auvenay

The vines are organically-farmed on a 15-hectare estate planted on white marl in the hamlet of Quintaine, just north of Clessé. Jean Thevenet and his son Gautier take their time producing their wines and retain traditional methods passed down from generation to generation. Ever since taking over the family estate in 1972 Jean has never been one to follow trends – keeping yields low (between 35-45 hectoliters per hectare) and picking purely on taste rather than relying on any data analytics from the lab. They have never been afraid to pick later than their peers due to their wines' amazing ability to retain acidity and freshness thanks to their unique marl blanche soils.  Even in a warmer vintage like 2015, Gautier says “you don’t feel the heat, the marl soil always providing a bitterness that offsets the fruit. If anything in 2015 the heat of the vintage has only brought a really incredible structure to the wine.” On tasting, its true – the wine is incredibly rich and fresh and finishes with a wonderful mineral salinity. For now, Gautier has not felt the bad effects of climate change, currently the warmer vintages are just bringing more complexity, structure and richness to the wines. For the 2015s, Gautier picked the grapes on the 17th September, which he states is not that much later than others in the region and perhaps just a week earlier than normal. Over the years he has learnt to trust in his terroir and even with such low yields (three times lower than the limits of the appellation) he needs to give the grapes time to reach optimum ripeness. The art of élevage Using no tricks to speed up the process, the wine ferments at a snail's pace under wild yeasts, producing a unique viscous-like texture and thanks to its distinct marl blanche soils a vibrant minerality and laser-like acidity. Grapes are left to hang on the vines until they are ultraripe. The grapes are then gently squeezed in a Coquard press until every ounce of flavour and all the intensely honeyed aromatics have been harvested. The wines undergo ultra-long fermentation and aged on the fine lees, and held back in the cellars at the domaine's expense, only being released when they are deemed ready to drink. These wines have amazing ageing ability too. Just recently William Kelley (Wine Advocate) talked about how the 1989 Viré-Clessé is drinking at its peak now at 30 years of age. Henri Jayer once said that a winemaker needs a chair. Less intervention, more reflection. This is somewhat mirrored in Jean Thevenet’s motto: “Terroir is to wine what a composer is to music. The winemaker being only the conductor.” In the cellars of Domaine de la Bongran intervention is minimal, with fermentations sometimes taking up to two years. Appellation controversy Despite Domaine de la Bongran being the most respected and appraised wine in the region, at the outset of the newly declared Viré-Clessé appellation in 1999, the wines of Domaine de la Bongran failed to qualify. The excuse from the IANO (administrative body) was that the levels of residual sugar were not considered “suitable” expressions of the region. Under these  new appellation rules the wines had to have a residual sugar level lower than 2g/litre, forcing Domaine de la Bongran to declassify down to Macon Villages. Following the extreme temperatures in 2003 all producers in the region produced wines with residual sugar over 2g/litre and therefore collaboratively put pressure on the IANO to increase the allowance up to 4g/litre allowing Bongran’s Viré-Clessé to qualify under the more premium Vire Clesse Appellation. For a body whose aim is to protect quality, specifically against over-cropping, the initial decision to omit the wines of Domaine de la Bongran seemed extraordinary, although it's fair to say the reputation of the winery precedes the appellation and if anything their inclusion has only elevated the status of the appellation. The wines The Viré-Clessé, also known as Cuvée Tradition, is the principal wine made at the estate, offering rich complexity, freshness and power with finesse. The wine is easily a match for the best of Puligny or Chassagne-Montrachet, they are examples of the heights that can be achieved with traditional winemaking methods. The Cuvée Levrouté (or Levroutee) is their off-dry wine typically around 18g/litre of residual sugar, only made in exceptional years, from part botrytised Chardonnay grapes, adding honey and truffle to the flavour profile. Cuvée Botrytis is a stunning rich sweet wine, coming from principally fully botrytised grapes. The conditions necessary to make this wine is are exceptionally rare, the last vintage being 2006. What the critics are saying: "..one of Burgundy’s greatest winemakers… served blind, tasters tend to think they are Grand Cru white Burgundies from Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet." Robert Parker  "The quality of what is produced here is mind-boggling." Allen Meadows, Burghound "Thévenet makes some of my favourite whites in all of Burgundy". William Kelley, Wine Advocate "quickly learned to love the wines… [which] are complex and fascinating, as age-worthy as many white Burgundy wines, perhaps even more so… Prices remain a fraction of what you would have to pay for a top Côte de Beaune, and I cannot recommend these highly enough." Neal Martin, Vinous "These are the wines of a genius." Robert Parker "Wine aficionados like to root for a winemaker who lives and breathes his calling. This is the story of a man who inspires just such support. He is Jean Thévenet... He’s obsessed with quality and makes terrific, highly distinctive white Burgundy…. Thévenet puts to shame many other producers in the Mâconnais." Wine Spectator Read more Editorial 

Domaine de la Bongran Vire Clesse is no ordinary Chardonnay from the Maconnais. It has its own particular style thanks to some rather unique terroir and an uncompromising approach to its winemaking. 

Exploring the Domaine de la Bongran Vire Clesse which has its own particular style thanks to some rather unique terroir

Vire Clesse by Domaine de la Bongran

Behind the bottle: Vire Clesse by Domaine de la Bongran

Kracher

Burgenland

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