Pale yellow. Reticent nose hints at musky peach and lime. Brisk, tight and rather uncompromising today, conveying an impression of strong acidity and youthful tannins. The slightly phenolic citrussy finish is subtle, serious and long. This distinctly backward wine calls for a good six or seven years of cellaring. (The Raveneaus' 2010 Montee de Tonnerre, Blanchots, Valmur and Clos, which I already reported on from barrel last year, were set to be bottled a week after my visit. Retastes of those wines underscored their high quality and captivating sucrosite ; my scores were within the ranges I published in Issue 157: 92-94, 92-94, 93-95 and 94-96, respectively. The Valmur and Clos were knockouts again, with the former wine less powerful but perhaps more classic Chablis, and the flamboyantly silky and expressive Clos showing the musky peach and spice richness of a top Puligny-Montrachet wine. None of these cuvees were particularly austere.)Author: Stephen Tanzer
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