($66) Good ruby-red. Nuanced nose combines currant, blueberry, blackberry and graphite with hints of olive and tobacco. Sweet and penetrating; shows the best fruit intensity of these basic 2007 varietal bottlings. Currant, licorice and mineral flavors are complemented by spicy oak (nearly 60% new) and supported by a firm tannic spine. This, too, needs time. Even the youngest blocks are now 8 to 12 years old, notes winemaker Johnson, "so we're getting better-balanced wines now."Author: Stephen Tanzer
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392 bottles owned by 88 collectors.
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