($320; a blend of the Gevreys) Medium red with a palish rim. Wild, meaty nose is already quite expressive. Sweet and silky but less fat than the Chambolle; this has firm minerality and a smoked meat element but there's also a faint vegetility lurking. Ultimately less primary than the Chambolle and a bit rustic in character. But the smoky finish shows good thrust.Author: Stephen Tanzer
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