($50; based on 100-year-old garnacha and carinena, with some cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot) Deep red. Smoky, nutty oak currently dominates on the nose. Then dense but juicy, with superripe flavors of dried fruits, blackberry, and minerals. Like a drier-styled port: slightly pruney but with a dry, nutty edge. Finishes with slightly dry but fine tannins and good length. I'd like to have seen a bit more sweetness.Author: Stephen Tanzer
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