($85) Full medium ruby. Superripe nose is distinctly porty yet bright. Then lush and deep in the mouth, with explosive, superripe flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Boasts terrific sweetness and depth but distinctly bound-up today, even a bit medicinal. Finishes with powerful but thoroughly ripe tannins. Not now as harmonious as it seemed from barrel, but this may well merit a higher score with bottle aging.Author: Stephen Tanzer
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