($63) Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. "Very interior wine today," notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and terrific persistence. This will need time.Author: Stephen Tanzer
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