($45; this is Muga's modern-style Rioja, aged for 22 months in American oak vats, then 16 months in new Allier barriques; as with the other Muga Riojas, this is bottled without filtration) Medium red-ruby. Subdued fruit aromas of plum, currant and raspberry, plus coffee, smoke and spice from the oak. Juicy but backward; extremely young and tightly wound. This has fruit of steel, with strong acids contributing to the wine's sharp flavor definition and powerful impression of spine. Juicy, sappy finish is very long and aromatic. Decant this highly concentrated wine for at least a few hours or cellar it for a decade. (Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA)Author: Stephen Tanzer
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