Wine Advocate | Rating: 95The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a decided success, wafting from the glass with fragrant aromas of orange rind, raspberries, wild berries and peonies that are complemented by deeper-pitched nuances of grilled game, cinnamon and spicy soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with an open, giving profile this year despite its excellent concentration and fleshy core, concluding with a tangy, saline finish. Tasting several barrels of the different components, which had been held back when the assemblage was made, was in a sense more revealing than trying the final blend, since the latter had been racked and sulfited. Once again, Jacques Desvauges used appreciable percentages of whole cluster and matured the wine in 80% new oak.Author: William KelleyIssue: Interim January 2019 Week 1
Vinous | Rating: 98The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.Drink Dates: 2024 - 2050Author: Neal MartinIssue: Jan 2019
Mommessin began in southern Burgundy as an inheritance from the Cluny monks. Founder Jean-Marie Mommessin built his wine business on the Grange Saint-Pierre estate in 1865, and soon claimed multiple vineyards under the Mommessin name. By far the most fruitful of these purchases was the renowned Clos de Tart, which Mommessin acquired from the Marey-Monge family in 1932. As the decades passed, the estate moved its head offices to the heart of Burgundy, focusing most strongly on its Clos de Tart label. By 1996, the vineyard was well-established as a quality Burgundy producer, but it gained an exemplary status under the new winemaker Sylvain Pitiot. When he took over the estate's daily operations, Pitiot's meticulous methods and attention to detail resulted in wines that received the highest ratings of any previous vintages produced on the estate. Today, Clos de Tart has defended its title as one of the best wine labels in the center of Burgundy.
The House Mommessin motto states that "Humans are in the service of the grapes." Pitiot takes this idea seriously, using biodynamic techniques to make his wines. The bottles are always unfiltered after being matured in 100 percent new oak, which Pitiot has said results in more terroir-specific wines. The Clos de Tart label is made using a blend of the best plots and oldest vines in the vineyard. Each plot is vinified separately before being blended together just before bottling, based on the type of soil in which they grew. Although the AOC allows for higher yields in the region, Mommessin keeps its grapevines severely pruned back, resulting in significantly lower yields than average. This, coupled with the age of the vines, produces grapes that are more concentrated in flavor and that ripen more easily. To further take advantage of these qualities, Mommessin has the latest harvests of nearly any Burgundy producer, and pre-macerates the grapes before barreling.
Burgundy is home to some of the greatest and most expensive wines in the world. Stretching from Auxerre in the north to Lyon in the south, the region's most famous section is the limestone-rich Côte d'Or. Vineyards in Burgundy are classified according to their locations on the hillsides. Only 2% of total production is from grand cru sites, while premier cru and village-level wines are more common. It is rare for one domaine to own an entire vineyard; rather the land has been divided down to individual rows, in some cases as a result of inheritance laws. While other varieties can be found in Burgundy, and reign supreme. The best examples are capable of aging for 15 years or more, a rarity for these two varieties, making them highly valuable.
Pinot Noir is a delicate, thin-skinned grape that is notoriously difficult to grow but unmatched in its ability to reflect its terroir. It is early-budding and early-ripening, and thus requires a cool climate. To achieve its best expression and maintain its delicate flavor profile, Pinot Noir demands great care in the vineyard, particular attention to yield management, and careful handling in the winery. Growers blessed with the patience, skill, and terroir to produce world-class Pinot Noir are greatly rewarded. Not only are these wines complex, age-worthy, and delicious, they also command some of the world’s highest prices.
Old-World Pinot Noir most famously hails from , where it is the only red variety permitted in the region. Techniques such as whole-bunch fermentation and barrel ageing, now common amongst high-quality Pinot Noir producers around the world, were pioneered by Burgundian winemakers. Age-worthy Pinot Noir from Burgundy tends to be high in acid, display low to medium tannins, and have red fruit flavors in youth that evolve into complex flavors of earth, game, cola, and truffle with age. Some of the most famous producers include , , , and .
New-World Pinot Noir tends to grow in warmer climates and on newer vines than in the Old Word, producing wine that is more fruit-forward with flavors of red cherry, cranberry, and raspberry. The highest-quality wines come from moderate regions in , particularly and , and top producers include , , and .
High acidity, low tannin, and low alcohol make Pinot Noir a versatile wine to pair. Spiced duck, fatty fish, grilled chicken, spicy foods, and anything with mushroom are just a few classic examples.