International Wine Cellar | Rating: 96(an approximation of the final blend, including the young vines): Healthy dark red. Superb soil-driven nose combines raspberry, musky rocky minerality, roast coffee and subtle floral lift. Large-scaled but fresh and gripping; more juicy than chewy in texture, with its very concentrated yet delicate berry fruit complemented but not overshadowed by strong soil tones. Finishes with serious but suave tannins that arrive late and an exhilarating light touch. (Incidentally, I also tasted a few of this wine's components. My favorite was from old vines planted in the upper part of the Clos on white soil rich in soft marl and rocks. This sample displayed ineffable rose petal lift to its aromas of raspberry and bacon fat, and its utterly suave, seamless, perfumed palate reminded me a bit of a great CA'te-RA'tie from the CA'te Blonde. Another sample from very old vines planted in the bottom part of the Clos on a plate of limestone featuring very shallow topsoil combined terrific thrust and delicacy, a silky texture and a spherical quality that reminded me of RomanAce-Conti. The wine's tannic touch was wonderfully refined. The young-vines component of Clos de Tart will contribute raspberry, spice and chocolate notes to the ultimate assemblage. While this sample seemed a bit facile--and not at the level of the other components--it will no doubt add an element of juiciness to the final blend.)Author: Stephen Tanzer
Mommessin began in southern Burgundy as an inheritance from the Cluny monks. Founder Jean-Marie Mommessin built his wine business on the Grange Saint-Pierre estate in 1865, and soon claimed multiple vineyards under the Mommessin name. By far the most fruitful of these purchases was the renowned Clos de Tart, which Mommessin acquired from the Marey-Monge family in 1932. As the decades passed, the estate moved its head offices to the heart of Burgundy, focusing most strongly on its Clos de Tart label. By 1996, the vineyard was well-established as a quality Burgundy producer, but it gained an exemplary status under the new winemaker Sylvain Pitiot. When he took over the estate's daily operations, Pitiot's meticulous methods and attention to detail resulted in wines that received the highest ratings of any previous vintages produced on the estate. Today, Clos de Tart has defended its title as one of the best wine labels in the center of Burgundy.
The House Mommessin motto states that "Humans are in the service of the grapes." Pitiot takes this idea seriously, using biodynamic techniques to make his wines. The bottles are always unfiltered after being matured in 100 percent new oak, which Pitiot has said results in more terroir-specific wines. The Clos de Tart label is made using a blend of the best plots and oldest vines in the vineyard. Each plot is vinified separately before being blended together just before bottling, based on the type of soil in which they grew. Although the AOC allows for higher yields in the region, Mommessin keeps its grapevines severely pruned back, resulting in significantly lower yields than average. This, coupled with the age of the vines, produces grapes that are more concentrated in flavor and that ripen more easily. To further take advantage of these qualities, Mommessin has the latest harvests of nearly any Burgundy producer, and pre-macerates the grapes before barreling.
Burgundy is home to some of the greatest and most expensive wines in the world. Stretching from Auxerre in the north to Lyon in the south, the region's most famous section is the limestone-rich Côte d'Or. Vineyards in Burgundy are classified according to their locations on the hillsides. Only 2% of total production is from grand cru sites, while premier cru and village-level wines are more common. It is rare for one domaine to own an entire vineyard; rather the land has been divided down to individual rows, in some cases as a result of inheritance laws. While other varieties can be found in Burgundy, and reign supreme. The best examples are capable of aging for 15 years or more, a rarity for these two varieties, making them highly valuable.
Collector Data For This Wine
- 93 bottles owned
- 12 collectors