Wine Advocate | Rating: 92Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, the 2014 Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne from Long-Depaquit was showing a bit of reduction on the nose and despite coaxing only turned out to be rather muffled. The palate is quite sharp on the entry with sour lemon and a touch of orange rind, a light oyster shell note underneath. I suspect there is a very fine Chablis grand cru here but it will require three or four years in bottle to really show what it can do. It certainly appears to be enjoying an upward swing in bottle.Author: Neal Martin
Burgundy is home to some of the greatest and most expensive wines in the world. Stretching from Auxerre in the north to Lyon in the south, the region's most famous section is the limestone-rich Côte d'Or. Vineyards in Burgundy are classified according to their locations on the hillsides. Only 2% of total production is from grand cru sites, while premier cru and village-level wines are more common. It is rare for one domaine to own an entire vineyard; rather the land has been divided down to individual rows, in some cases as a result of inheritance laws. While other varieties can be found in Burgundy, and reign supreme. The best examples are capable of aging for 15 years or more, a rarity for these two varieties, making them highly valuable.
Chardonnay is a versatile variety that can grow in a wide range of climates, and its neutral flavor profile offers a blank canvas for winemakers to impart their style. In cool climates, Chardonnay displays flavors of green fruit and citrus. As the climate becomes more moderate, flavors of white peach and melon develop. In warm and hot climates, aromas of banana, pineapple, and other tropical fruit are common.
The best Old-World Chardonnay comes from , where it is uniquely reflective of terroir and can express many different flavor profiles even within this relatively small region. In , the northernmost part of Burgundy, wines are often unoaked and known for their minerality, high acidity, and aromas of green apple, citrus, wet stone, and slate. In the , further south, wines are typically aged in neutral French oak and have flavors of stone fruit, toast, almond, and cream. Burgundian producers pioneered the techniques that are now associated with high-quality Chardonnay around the world, including barrel fermentation, barrel ageing, malolactic fermentation, and maturation on lees. The best wines, from producers like , , and , can age in the bottle for a decade or more, developing complex aromas of nuts and mushroom.
New-World Chardonnay tends to grow in warmer climates than in the Old World, producing wines that are full-bodied, high in alcohol, and low in acidity. Use of American oak imparts flavors of vanilla, clove, hazelnut, butter, and caramel on top of peach and banana fruit. Look to producers in and , including , , and , for the highest-quality versions of this New-World style.
Chardonnay’s versatility makes it a great option for pairing. High-acid wines from Chablis are the perfect accompaniment to oysters or clams, while oak-forward Napa wines are the best match for buttery lobster. Halibut, cod, and chicken breast are classic pairings with white Burgundy.
Collector Data For This Wine
- 10 bottles owned
- 3 collectors