2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Valmur Grand Cru

Bright pale yellow. Subdued but precise aromas of fresh apricot and peach, acacia flower and flint. Rich and supple but subtle and quite dry, with the fresh peach flavor carrying through in the mouth. Not quite as detailed as the Vaudesir but the subtle, slowly rising finish boasts excellent breadth and persistence. Fabien Moreau notes that this grand cru used to be more massive here but has been getting tighter and fresher in recent years--a change that he attributes to his family's biodynamic practices.

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: July/August 2012

Moreau's 2010 Chablis Valmur shows the pedigree of this great site in its deceptively medium-bodied, at times weightless, personality. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but it needs time to emerge. Still, I very much like the energy and delineation, both of which elevate the Valmur to a significant degree. Orange blossom, nectarine and flowers leave a lasting impression. The richness that is typical of Valmur is nicely buffered by underlying veins of minerality.

Author: Antonio Galloni