($50) Bright medium red. High-toned, spice-accented aromas of wild strawberry, pomegranate, cherry and rhubarb, with subtle nuances of dried rose and smoked meat adding complexity. Silky in texture yet refreshingly brisk, with sweet red berry flavors and hints of Asian spices and herbs in the background. Gains some richness with air and finishes with excellent spicy length. This wine is already complex but its lively acidity suggests that a few more years of patience will be rewarded. Incidentally, Thomas's 2002 and 2004 bottlings are still surprisingly primary based on bottles I've drunk in the last few months. These wines rarely bowl you over with power but they are very reliable agers.