2007 Domaine Henri Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2007 Batard-Montrachet ƒA?A? from holdings that straddle the Puligny-Chassagne line ƒA?A? is once again challenged by placing it in a line-up after Boillot's Criots and Bienvenues, but the wine chooses to go its own very fruit-centric, generous, and in the final analysis no less vintage-typical way. Peach, musk melon, and papaya in the nose segue into a sumptuously rich, ripely-fruited palate that incorporates marzipan and honey, yet also a fresh cut of citrus. This would finish more lusciously were it not for a sheer concentration - encompassing citrus zest, peach kernel, vanilla bean, and alkaline minerality - of palate staining bitterness. It will probably retain stamina for a decade.

Author: David Schildknecht