2007 Domaine Henri Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2007 Batard-Montrachet ƒA?A? from holdings that straddle the Puligny-Chassagne line ƒA?A? is once again challenged by placing it in a line-up after Boillot's Criots and Bienvenues, but the wine chooses to go its own very fruit-centric, generous, and in the final analysis no less vintage-typical way. Peach, musk melon, and papaya in the nose segue into a sumptuously rich, ripely-fruited palate that incorporates marzipan and honey, yet also a fresh cut of citrus. This would finish more lusciously were it not for a sheer concentration - encompassing citrus zest, peach kernel, vanilla bean, and alkaline minerality - of palate staining bitterness. It will probably retain stamina for a decade.

Author: David Schildknecht

This is almost as ripe as the Criots and even more complex than the Bienvenues with a layered and deep nose of spice, toast, floral notes, peach, pear and lemon zest that can also be found on the utterly delicious, full-bodied and powerful flavors that are voluminous but focused, detailed and which detonate like a vinous bomb on the textured and palate staining finish that goes on and on. 2007 is a terrific vintage for this appellation as it adds a touch of elegance that Bƒtard sometimes lacks. A monument that will age for years.

Author: Allen Meadows

Issue: 3rd Quarter, 2009