2006 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

($73) Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and very long. The juice that goes into this cuvee comes from vines that are at least 50 years of age, with the blend featuring 65% grenache, 15% each of syrah and mourvedre, and 5% cinsault and |divers (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA)

Author: Josh Raynolds

Issue: January/February 2009

A very grippy style, with lots of sweet tapenade, tobacco, hot stone and braised chestnut notes weaving through a core of dark currant and fig fruit. There's a nice twinge of lavender on the structured finish. For the cellar. 16,000 cases made.

Author: James Molesworth

One of the more youthful wines in the retrospective, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau from the Brunier brothers is a head-turner. Possessing the ever present seaweed/nori character that I almost always find in this cuvee, it has a beautiful core of currants, crushed rocks, tapenade and licorice-like aromas and flavors. Made from 65% Grenache, 15% each of Mourvedre and Syrah, and the balance Cinsault'all from the famed La Crau lieu-dit'this is as traditional and classic Chateauneuf du Pape as you can get. It's a gorgeous wine that has another 10-15 years of longevity.

Author: Jeb Dunnuck

Rich and sweet and liqueur-like. Masses of body and alcohol. Vigorous with lots of structure.

Author: Jancis Robinson