2006 Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

($150) Good deep violet-ruby. Very primary aromas of crushed cassis and blueberry, with notes of eucalyptus and pepper. Extremely tight and unforthcoming, if not downright tough, with peppery black fruit flavors complicated by leather and smoked meat. Finishes with somewhat drying tannins. I don't find the same level of ripeness here as in the Ruchottes or Mazis. Frederic Esmonin noted that these vines were picked at the beginning of October, and that a sizable percentage of the berries were eliminated on the sorting table. An awkward showing today.

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: March/April 2008