($33) Medium green-yellow. Stone fruits, yellow plum and delicate meadow herbs on the nose. Intense, opulent mango and papaya flavors are nicely leavened by juicy, well-integrated acidity. Finishes with excellent length. This concentrated, fruit-driven veltiner will gain in complexity with bottle aging.
Author: Peter Moser
Issue: November/December 2006
Wine Advocate | Rating: 94
Resting in tank, but essentially ready for bottling, was Hiedler's 2005 Gruner Veltliner Thal Novemberlese, which underwent batonnage until May and had just been filtered prior to bottling when I tasted it. Lemon, orange, white peach, and brown spice aromas suggest Riesling. More Gruner Veltliner-typical sweet pea and root vegetables join in on the rich, satisfyingly leesy, subtly vanilla creme palate. A full-throated finish incorporates peach pit, caramelized root vegetables, spices, pepper, aromatic herbs, and mysterious mineral elements. This superbly rich Gruner Veltliner has acidity so low (a mere five grams per liter) as to seem downright deficient on paper, yet it displays lilt, minerality, brightness, and clarity. Indeed, the wine ƒA?A? which kept growing in the glass -- is completely in a class by itself among Hiedler's 2005s. If this is how the wine tastes immediately after filtration, imagine how good it may prove to be once bottled and rested!