2005 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco

(like the Cicala, this comes from vines averaging between 45 and 50 years of age; the Conternos' Gran Bussia bottling has traditionally been about 70% from Romirasco) Good red-ruby. Lower-toned nose shows more licorice, minerals and truffle and less primary fruit. A rather powerful Barolo that's more complex, more elegant and tighter-grained than the Cicala, but showing less body today. The dark berry and mineral flavors boast very good inner-mouth energy, and the spicy finish features firmer tannic bite. This and the Cicala holding are monopoles of the Conterno family. A piece in the middle of this 2.5-hectare parcel, which went into the Gran Bussia, has recently been replanted. In vintage 2005, the Conternos will offer a Romirasco and a Gran Bussia for the first time, according to Franco.

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: November/December 2007