2004 Mas Martinet Clos Martinet

($75) Inky ruby. Intensely spicy nose features exotic oak notes atop boysenberry and cassis, plus a strong, almost candied violet quality. A deep, suave midweight, with dark fruit flavors, no excess weight and a gentle tannic underpinning. The blackberry and plum flavors cut cleanly through the oak spices. Hints of espresso, iron and tobacco emerge on the finish, which shows striking length and concentration. I'd resist opening this for at least five years.

Author: Josh Raynolds

Issue: September/October 2006

The 2004 Clos Martinet is not as dense as its older sibling but it offers more aromatic complexity (a characteristic of 2004 in the Catalan region) and cuts a broader swath across the palate. It is a rich, plushly textured, full-flavored wine that merits 2-4 years of additional bottle age after which it should drink well for at least 15 years.

Author: Jay Miller

This chewy red offers plum, espresso, licorice and earth flavors, with a briny tang on the finish. Muscular tannins turn a bit dry on the finish.

Author: Thomas Matthews