Wine Advocate | Rating: 95
As always, the fruit for the 2003 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux (red) was harvested, vinified, and aged in three distinct batches, separated by age of vines. The youngest plants, those ranging from 16-21 years old, have been declassified to produce a 2003 Pommard 1er Cru (deemed too hard and astringent to be recommended). Typically, the middle-age vines (ranging from 26-50 years old) constitute 70% of the final blend. Yet, in 2003, the old vines (60-75 years old) |didn't suffer from any of nature's assaults so their yields were normal,| resulting in their constituting fully 50% of the final assemblage. The cuvee from 26-50 year old vines, from parcels located at both the top and bottom of the Clos, displays a medium to dark ruby color, waxy black fruit aromas, a medium body, dense dark fruit flavors, and chewy, highly present tannin. The old vine cuvee is the finest Pommard I've put to my lips. Almost black in color, it bursts forth with plummy black cherry aromas. On the palate, it is amazingly thick (my notes read: |Unreal!!!|), oily, hugely concentrated, and boasts unending layers of black cherry fruit. In addition, its tannin is flawlessly ripe and sweet. On its own, the old vine cuvee would earn a score in the 97-point range, easily setting a record for a Pommard in The Wine Advocate. Yet, Benjamin Leroux's duty is to craft a Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, not to make tiny luxury cuvees... The final blend of the 2003 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux is dark ruby-colored and explodes from the glass with waxy red and black cherries, roasting spices, and toasted oak. Medium to full-bodied, it is crammed with superb flavors of red fruits (cherries and raspberries), dark berries (boysenberries, black cherries, cassis), licorice, and tar. Dense, velvety-textured, and fresh, it exhibits a persistent, structured, ripe tannin filled finish.
Author: Pierre Rovani