2003 Château de la Maltroye Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

($195) Reticent nose hints at soft citrus scents. The biggest, broadest and richest of these 2003s, with a lovely round texture. Characterized more by its volume than by its cut today, but this huge and very long wine would appear to have a bright future. Finishes with notes of truffle and vanillin oak. This is 13.45% natural alcohol, the highest of these 2004s.

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: September/October 2005

In contrast to a number of wines above, this has already eaten most if not all of its wood with pretty white flower and very ripe pear and peach aromas that lead to rich, sweet, round and remarkably supple flavors that pack plenty of muscle and finishing punch. What I like here though is that this is an elegant Bƒtard and while there is no shortage of concentration, there is obvious breed and a lovely sense of overall refinement and harmony. In short, this delivers.

Issue: 3rd Quarter, 2005