($44; from Boushey Vineyard fruit) Bright ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, pepper, smoke, licorice, espresso and game. Lush on entry, then dense and peppery, with flavors of sweet berries, hung game, black cardamom and caraway seed. Offers excellent focus but the flavors are a tad rustic. A serious, structured wine that's currently a bit tough, with its components not yet in sync. Today this comes across as less fruity and less voluptuous than the '02 release.