($65; from vines planted in 1975) Full ruby-red. Varietally expressive aromas of wild berries, cola, sassafras, roasted herbs and smoky oak; reminded me of Morey-Saint-Denis. Sweet, dense and highly concentrated, with the wild berry flavors nicely framed by juicy acidity. Bright and classically dry, finishing young and strong. This was bottled in January of '04, while the other pinots were finished last August.