($77; 70% destemmed) Medium red. Aromas of cherry, smoke, earth, licorice and flowers. Pure and aromatic in the mouth, with good plump texture and notes of cherry, herbs, licorice and underbrush. Perhaps a bit pinched toward the back, but clean for the vintage. (My samples of Volnay Champans and Taillepieds seemed compromised by hail, although Etienne is confident that the latter wine will soften with time in bottle.)
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: March/April 2004
Elegant and pure pinot fruit is framed by earth and an intense minerality followed by precise, intense medium weight flavors that do not possess the requisite buffering material for the prominent tannic spine that dominates the finish. This is perfectly good, if disappointing relative to what I saw in cask but it's clearly not the '02.