1998 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Nei Cannubi

($73) Full medium ruby. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice and woodsmoke. Rich, supple and sweet, with notes of dark chocolate and menthol. Already offers lovely inner-mouth aromatic quality. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins and lingering chocolatey flavor. Much more approachable than the Costa Grimaldi but has the balance to reward aging. (Empson U.S.A., Alexandria, VA)

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: November/December 2002

Ripe strawberry and plum on the nose follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. I love the velvety texture of this wine. Still give it a year or two of bottle age.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 820 cases made.

Author: James Suckling

The enormously concentrated, dense ruby-colored 1998 Barolo Cannubi possesses stunningly concentrated black cherry fruit intermixed with truffles, graphite, asphalt, and smoke. Extremely full-bodied, super-powerful, and palate-staining in its richness and dense flavors, it is obviously tannic, as well as concentrated. It is only for those with patience.

Author: Robert Parker