1997 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva

($140) Full, deep red. Low-toned aromas of raspberry, mocha, game and menthol, with emerging notes of dried rose and spice cake. Pliant, sweet and dense, with surprisingly cool, primary berry flavors and a solid underlying backbone. A juicy, bright Brunello riserva that saturates the palate. Finishes with dusty, tongue-coating tannins and building currant and leather flavors. (Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY)

Author: Stephen Tanzer

Issue: September/October 2003

The 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano shows a rustic fringe (especially compared to the super-refined 1999 edition of the same wine) with some aromas of braised meat, pecorino cheese rind, black fruit, smoke and barbecue spice. It's a wine with thicker bones, chunky parts and more abrupt movements. Having said that, its hearty, hometown-homeboy personality makes it just the kind of wine to pair with grilled meat and crunchy, oven-roasted potatoes with rosemary and olive oil. It's definitely a wine that brings on your appetite. Drink: 2014-2022.

Author: Monica Larner

This is a wine that has all to come. Loads of blackberry and dried fruits on the nose, with full body, supersilky tannins and a long, long finish. Layered and beautiful, with loads of fruit. Yet it is refined and caressing. So much flavor. This will only get better.--1997 Italian blind retrospective.

Author: James Suckling