Speaking at a seminar in London, Marchese Piero Antinori has asserted that "one third of Italian wines should be grubbed up," prompting more than a few reactions to the effect of "the pot calling the kettle black." Decanter reports that Antinori suggests that central Italy, in particular, suffers from overproduction, low quality and "not very interesting" varieties such as Trebbiano. He suggests replanting or pulling out the "30% of vines [that are] making wines unacceptable to today's markets."
Sound a little odd? It seems to me there nothing much new about overcropped "vin ordinaire," whether it be from Italy or California's Central Valley. I'm not sure if there's a value judgement to be made about its production. Growers respond to changes in the market as they must; why the need for Antinori to call them out, especially when Antinori's own product line contains mass-produced examples?
What's your take on Italian quality in general? Had a good Trebbiano lately?
