Could things be worse for Mendocino County? This growing season got off to an ominous start when frosts hit vineyards in Anderson Valley, causing up to 70% loss in extreme Deep End sites. And now, with Northern California experiencing one of its worst fire seasons in recorded history, things are only getting worse. Blazes in Mendocino are troubling for a number of reasons, not the least of which is horrible air quality with particulate counts above 200. The fires pose other threats, as explained here in Wine Spectator.
Of immediate concern are conditions for workers, threat of actual fire in vineyards, and a delay in harvest dates as smoke blocks out the sun (obviously needed for the fruit to reach maturity). Winemakers, though, are concerned with longer term effects, including one familiar to their Australian counterparts. “Smoke taint” is essentially flavors of smoke in finished wines made from vineyards that had been subjected to extended periods of smoky air. Most growers and winemakers are hopeful that conditions will improve by harvest, and that there will be no taint in the ‘08s.
Unfortunately, since smoke taint isn’t a term normally thrown about in California, there is an element of fear among winemakers. Companies that make, and sensationally market, chemical additives/corrections/whatever you want to call them, are seizing on winemakers’ concerns. Already, these companies are bombarding winemakers with promises of miracle fixes for any and all “off” flavors or aromas. This is nothing new; winemakers routinely use these products to adjust for everything from high alcohol to VA to…you name it. Is this just another challenge for modern winemaking technology? It will certainly be interesting to find out if smoke taint does in fact make it into some of these wines, and if anyone will notice. I, for one, am eager to find out. In the meantime, let’s hope that these tragic fires can be contained, homes and lives can be saved, and that California will no more have to fear the term “smoke taint”.
