Southern Italy is taking center stage as a destination hot spot; overlooking the alluring waters of the Mediterranean, its rustic foods and great wine are inspiring enthusiasts to explore a previously unfamiliar region. While many can claim a knowledge of, or affinity for, great Nebbiolo from the Langhe or the Sangiovese-based wines of Tuscany, how many can claim familiarity with old-vine Aglianico from Campania or Nerello Mascalese from Mt. Etna?
Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily and Sardegna are the geographic reference points for the vines of Southern Italy. Although international varietals like Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay have taken a foothold in these regions, native varietals reign supreme for many resurrected estates. As a result, almost extinct varietals are slowly making a comeback through aggressive propagation programs and the preservation of these native varietals is a common theme through the South.
A new generation of winemakers and growers is investing in this once deprived area, where modern winemaking advances have been applied over the last twenty years. Before the late 1980s, it was common for the “older generation” to sell grapes in bulk to a local cooperative, but today, quality is stressed over quantity, with the common goal to coax the most out of the old-vine material and bottle the efforts under estate labels. Bulk production has been replaced by reduced yields and high quality.
From an American point of view, there has been no better time to sample the amazing array of products coming out of this area. Importers are putting forth a great effort to make sure the wonders of Southern Italy reach the States. The wide spectrum includes everything from the everyday value drinker to age-worthy old-vine reserve wines, often at a third of the cost of their Tuscan or Piedmont equivalents. Below you’ll find a breakdown of the regions and their top varietals, as well as four recommendations for exploring the best of Southern Italy. 
Regions and Varietals
Campania (Capital- Naples)- Provinces: Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, Napoli & Salerno
Whites- Falanghina, Fiano & Greco
Reds- Aglianico & Piedirosso
Apulia (Puglia) (Capital- Bari)- Provinces: Bari, Brindisi, Goggia, Lecce & Taranto
Whites- Malvasia, Moscato & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Primitivo, Negoamaro & Uva di Troia
Basilicata (Capital- Potenza)- Provinces: Matera & Potenza
Whites- Fiano, Malvasia & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Aglianico, Bombino Nero, Aleatico, & Malvasia Nera
Calabria (Capital- Catanzaro)- Provinces: Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio di Calabria
Whites- Greco Bianco
Reds- Gaglioppo & Greco Nero
Sardegna (Capital- Cagliari)- Provinces: Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano & Sassari
Whites- Vermentino & Moscato
Reds- Monica, Carignano & Cannonau
Sicily (Capital- Palermo)- Provinces: Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Catania & Enna
Whites- Grillo, Grecanico, Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia, Zibibbo & Malvasia
Reds- Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio
Recommended Wines
2005 Fucci, Elena - Aglianico del Vulture Titolo, Basilicata ($49) VF 94
The Titolo is 100% Aglianico grown on high-altitiude vineyards in the Vulture district of Basilicata. The vines struggle to survive in the pure volcanic lava soil, allowing for concentrated flavors in the bottle. The 2005 is aged 12 months in barrique and another six months in the bottle before release.
2005 Passopisciaro, Mt. Etna, Sicily ($32) WA 93
100% Nerello Mascalese, which was picked way into November, provides tremendous aromatics that harmonize with the layers of dried dark fruit. The wine is made by Andrea Frnchetti, who made his name with the Tenuta di Trinoro, a heralded estate in Tuscany.
1999 Contrade di Taurasi (Cantina Lonardo) - Taurasi Riserva, Campania ($65) VF 93
The benchmark for Aglianico in Campania hands-down is from the Taurasi zone.One of the most long-lived wines of Southern Italy! Taurasi merits the same attention as a collectable and ages as well as Barolo. The wine spends about three weeks on the skins and is aged for 18-24 months in large wood puncheons to emphasize the fruit and spice. Here’s a wine you can decant for a few hours and enjoy now or lay down for another 10-12 years.
2006 Donnafugata - Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye, Sicily ($37 375ml) WA 90
The Ben Rye passito is a pure hedonistic wonder! 100% Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria), grown on the volcanic island of Pantelleria off the southern coast of Sicily. The new release was honored with Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri of distinction. Arabs brought the grape over from the North African coast a few hundred years ago and only a few estates produce this unique passito. The vines are bush head-trained to withstand the high powered winds that whip across the island.
