A few weeks ago my husband and I celebrated my birthday with a dinner at Cyrus in Healdsburg. As we had previously enjoyed the inventive cocktails and wines at the bar, we were anxious to try the full cuisine in the dining room. On our last visit bartender Scott Beattie had impressed us with a “Rubarbtini”, one of his many libations that use seasonal and locally-sourced fruits and herbs. Since it was early May, we wondered which seasonal dishes chef Douglas Keane would feature on the dinner menu. Below are our selections for a three-course meal:
Canapés and an Amuse Bouche
These nibbles stimulated the palate with contrasting elements of flavor, temperature, and texture.
NV Agrapart & Fils Brut “Terroirs” Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru
Similar to: NV Lancelot-Royer - Blanc de Blancs Cuvee des Chevaliers ($44)
This crisp, lean sparkler was made from Chardonnay sourced from grand cru vineyards in Avize. Although I typically prefer blanc de blancs from le Mesnil, this champagne had a lovely balance of acidity and nutty creaminess that paired well with the canapés.
First Course
Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango and Hearts of Palm
Roasted Beets with Mandarins and Pistachios
The citrus garnishes made the first course particularly refreshing, while the beet and nut combination gave a slightly earthier component.
2006 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($40)
This young Puligny showed notes of lemon, crisp acidity and subtle oak. This wine selection highlighted the bright flavors in the first course.
Second Course
Crispy Poussin with Fava Beans and Morels, Thyme Jus
Lamb Loin with Black Rice, Haricot Verts, Capers and Raisins
I simply loved the crispy Poussin, a spring chicken, sourced from a farm in nearby Sonoma. It was extremely tender, dripping in its own juice and thyme, but cooked perfectly to give its skin a contrasting crunch. The lamb was a heartier dish that emanated earthy, meaty flavors which paired nicely with the spicy dark fruit character of the St Joseph wine pairing.
2004 J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus
Similar to: 2004 Saint Cosme - Saint Joseph ($32)
On the nose this classic Rhone Syrah displayed notes of olive, lavender, and grilled meats. It had a rich dark color with concentrated flavors of red and black fruits such as plum, red currant and blackberry.
Third Course
Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Breads, Fruits, and Accompaniments
Chocolate Malt Ice Cream, Butterfinger, Chocolate Almond Croquette
The desserts provided the final touches on the meal, from the creamy texture of triple cream cheese to the cooling sensations of chocolate malt.
Mignardises
The final dessert cart offered a selection of fruit candies, homemade marshmallows, and chocolates.
Our meal at Cyrus was extremely well-balanced and executed with keen attention to detail. I look forward to returning in another season to try new dishes from a different flavor perspective and explore more of the selections from their international wine list.
