The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet.
The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:
- Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
- Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
- Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix. In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier. The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand. All of these wines need more cellar time.
Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne. Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares. The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality.
A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential. While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.
2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne $117 In Stock
BH 93 Drink 2012+
Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon. -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007
